A French team of six friends, Perrine Marceron, Claire Santoni, Louis Grenet, Thomas Charbonneau, Emmanuel Abelé, and Jb de Miscault, is currently training for a late autumn expedition to Saipal (7031m) – a peak located at far off northwestern corner of Nepal. It’s reported that Saipal has only five ascents, the first being in October 1963 (others mention it as 1964) by Katsutoshi Harabayashi and Pasang Phutar Sherpa, via the south ridge. French team will be approaching the mountain from North side to climb the NE ridge. Two climbers are also preparing for a skiing descent. First and the only ascents on this route are report from October 1990. The mountain has been attempted only once (in 2010 by a French party) since 1998. Paolo Grobel of 2010 expedition wrote in his AAJ report, “Despite not reaching the main summit of Saipal, only the northeast top, it was my most enjoyable expedition. We realized there is so much to discover in the West: mountains, treks, and especially the people. 2011 has been declared the Year of Tourism in Nepal. If only one percent of the tourists who went to the Annapurna or Khumbu regions could find their way out west (or other forgotten parts of Nepal), then this initiative will be successful, and our climb will have more meaning.” Instead of trying to ‘discover’ new 8000m peaks, it would be better if a fraction of Khumbu region traffic could be diverted to such places. Saipal Team’s website: expeditionsaipal2013.blogspot.fr Photo: Northeast ridge of Saipal seen during the walk to base camp from Chala Village. High point on left Saipal East Humla: main summit in (right) background. Photographer: Paulo Grobel
Posted on: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 10:22:41 +0000
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