A magic, magic late afternoon. 8 hours at the news hamster wheel - TopicsExpress

A magic, magic late afternoon. 8 hours at the news hamster wheel in LA, come home, walk to the beach. 68 degrees in the ocean. Perfect bodysurfing waves. I mean, perfect. Six foot sets. Over and over again. The waves that I passed on were mostly better than the best waves of the past 3 years. One wave crested weird and I was 8 feet up before I shot out. My chest felt like it was going down corrugated steel as I shot out across the rippled water. I bodysurfed until exhausted, about 2 hours. Then a margarita, avocado and chips in hot tub, followed by chicken bratwurst on da grill. My back right now feels like a a chicken carcass that is about to be split in half by the cleaver. Its wonderful.

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