Adventures in Rigging II: The amazing auto blocking belay device Presenter: Gregg J. Gagliardi Tacoma Mountaineers Program Center Friday, April 4, 2014, 6:30pm-9:30 pm Registration and donations at the door Auto-blocking belay devices (ABBD; e.g., BD Guide, Petzl Reverso, and others) provide a lead climber with several commonly known belay options. Less well known are a variety of other remarkable functions that these devices can perform. In this seminar I review the basics of ABBD operation (quick, efficient set-up for a belay directly off the anchor, safely releasing the device when the follower has weighted it by falling or hanging on the rope). I also show how to use the ABBD to lower another climber and quickly put them back on belay. I will show you how to use the ABBD to assist a follower who needs help and cannot ascend on their own, and how to rescue a disabled follower using a high mechanical advantage raise (5:1 Double Mariners system; 6:1 system; 9:1 system) when belaying with an ABBD. Next, I will cover methods for ascending and descending the rope using your ABBD and a foot-loop Prusik; a simple method for lower angle terrain and more complex method using mechanical advantage to ascend vertical terrain and/or to ascend with a larger load (e.g., when carrying a pack). I will show you how to quickly convert a rappel to an ascent and vice versa, a technique that comes in handy if you are rappelling into the void to an unknown rappel station, have to manage a stuck or tangled rappel rope on descent, or have to bail on the rappel when you discover that there is no suitable second rappel station or possibility for building one on gear. Finally we shall cover use of the ABBD off the harness in guide mode, a technique that allows the device to function like a Gri Gri or Cinch, that is useful for single pitch climbing. Pre-requisites.This seminar is for second year intermediate course students and graduates. First year intermediate students are welcome but be advised that some of the techniques demonstrated are advanced variations of techniques that you may be learning at intermediate rock 1 and rock 2 and this may potentially create some confusion. It is mainly narrated demonstration with limited opportunity for practice. It is designed to promote and enhance your personal learning of these techniques, which can only be achieved with diligent practice. Bring a camera, or iphone to record the set ups. I will provide students with links to videos of some of these techniques. Gear needed: Harness, ABBD (e.g, BD guide, Petzl Reverso or other auto blocking belay device), large HMS carabiner, one double runner (or Purcell Prusik), round diameter locking carabiner (Petzl Attache is a good choice), two additional large locking carabiners, several snap link carabiners, cordelette, pulley, at least 2 friction devices (e.g., 2-3 Prusik loops or Valdotains; or Tiblocs, Kong Duck, Petzl Micro Traxion if you already own them and want to try them out). All proceeds go to our new outdoor climbing wall. Your generous contribution is welcome.
Posted on: Sun, 23 Mar 2014 17:44:09 +0000
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