After a few long days since the last update, the Nullarbor has been conquered. Ok, maybe it was more like limping across the line. As I prepared to leave the Nullarbor roadhouse a few days ago, who should be waiting inside the diner but the Swiss couple, Sibil and Bruno, Id first met on the Munda Biddi about two months back. As it turns out, theyd already covered 60km that morning, so we chatted while they had a good rest. We set off together across the treeless plain and despite the initial impression, it turns out treeless plain is only 17km long. However, it is the only stretch of the Nullarbor completely devoid of trees. Although covering that section quickly was a good idea, the pace set on their touring bikes made it difficult to keep up on the fatty. Nonetheless, it was great to have some company on the road to hold a conversation, and tucking in behind saved valuable energy fighting the wind. We pulled over for lunch after a few hours at which point they decided to call it a day. There was still plenty of daylight left so I left the others and kept riding, crossing into the Yalata indigenous land soon after. The trees reappeared and strangely enough, so did a few hills. After so long riding the flat countryside Id forgotten what a simple joy it was to roll down a hill without pedalling. I eventually reached a decent rest stop and set up camp. Soon after getting up and hitting the road I called into the now defunct Yalata roadhouse and caravan park, having been informed there was a shop there. Although I didnt find any sign of it, one of the local workers told me it was at the community, 3km off the highway at the next turnoff. He was about to head there for lunch so offered me a lift. What a pleasant surprise the place turned out to be. The shop was well stocked with food and fresh produce. Such a nice change from the roadhouse fare of the past few weeks. After grabbing a few items we drove back to the caravan park, ate and I prepared to head off again. About 10km before the Nundroo roadhouse, I met up with the walker, Dan, whod overtaken me during the delays in Eucla. We both ended up staying at the roadhouse that night, looking forward to a good nights rest. Got off to a decent start the next morning and although already warm, the wind was coming from the North and offering some assistance for a change. The miles flew by and the 80km to Penong was looking pretty easy. It wasnt long before I caught up with a Maori walking across the Nullarbor while pushing a trolley. This fellow was doing it tough. His trolley was very basic compared to the one Id seen earlier, but still he soldiered on. He even had his dog with him! We talked for a while before I set off again to make the most of the favourable conditions. Unfortunately it wasnt long before the wind died down completely and the temperature soared. I rode on in search of any shelter to escape the sun which was directly overhead. Eventually I found somewhere to take refuge and spent the next hour eating and drinking, waiting for any form of breeze to make an appearance. Sure enough it returned, but in force, warm and now from the South. Not ideal when heading South east, but at least the trees reappeared to help provide some cover. I rode on for a while longer before taking refuge amongst some trees and scrub once more. Hopefully I could shelter here until the wind dropped a little, as it appeared to be preceding a front that hinted at rain that might also appease the heat. After a couple of hours the wind and temp both dropped a little and it was time to move on. Slow but steady progress ensured I made it to Penong reasonably comfortably. The town wasnt large, but substantial compared to the roadhouses from the past few weeks. I was famished, so feasted on a mixed grill and 2L chocolate milk. I was so stuffed I could barely move so sat in the cafe contemplating my next move. The options were to find accommodation in town, ride a bit further and set up camp or try riding all the way to Ceduna. A few people had told me how enjoyable it had been to ride the Nullarbor at night. The temp was lower, the wind gentler and the traffic was lighter and easier to avoid. Aside from being so full, I felt fresh and decided to ride on, seeing where it led from there. The wind had indeed dropped and traffic had thinned out, so progress was good. However, I was starting to feel quite sleepy so pulled into a rest stop to grab a couple of hours sleep. After setting the alarm, I wrapped the tarp around me and tried to drift off. Although managing some sleep, it was very broken and unsettled. Even so, I felt much better and more alert from the rest. Time to push on. The time passed quickly, though the wind picked up substantially. Even so, I managed to plod along and managed to roll into Ceduna just as the sun rose. The Nullarbor is now behind me but it was nowhere near as barren and empty as many made out. Some great things to see if you simply take the time. After riding over 150km since yesterday, figured Id earned an extra days rest. Ill head off again tomorrow towards Port Augusta.
Posted on: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 05:04:55 +0000
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