And despite Crete and its weather patterns best intentions, we made it to Chania, with plenty of hours of daylight to spare and with the new sail repairs holding well. We had set off a little earlier than was robably recommended for the wind but I think we were just all itching to go. We had a shopping list to fulfil: Cooking gas, water and a great desire for showers urging us onwards. Because we left before the wind was forecast to arrive we knew we would try to motor sail for a few hours and catch the wind that was supposed to come through by sundown...all best intentions. We managed to ghost along without the engine for a while, celebrating anytime the instruments showed 2kts. The fishing lines were out, the air was reasonably warm and the seas very calm. The kids used the time to write Christmas cards and I got on with work - the first time ever while moving along. We ghosted all the way to Irakleon before we found some wind. Not exactly the direction forecast and quite a bit stronger than we were expecting so we soon sped u to 7kts and I began to worry about testing the repairs on the genoa. The main East wind was forecast for overnight and during the next day but not once in the whole journey did they swing East. South the whole way....when it blew, it blew hard, when it didnt blow we had to use the engines as there was absolutely zero wind. Stop Start Stop Start. Only real worry was one funnelled wind came through hard at around 28kts while we had the full genoa out but shortening it this time was without complication and we were satisfied that the repair work was strong. The night was cold but only when the wind blew and little sleep was achieved leaving us a bit bleary eyed. I checked the charts on the approach to Chania port (after landing a nice sized mackerel) to find it really was our last option before anchoring off somewhere really far West or springing straight for Kythira so I phoned the port authorities in advance as advised. As a port of entry it was a lot more formal than anywhere else we have ever been in Greece b ut we were told they had a space for us. I got concerned that it seemed such a fancy place with such good facilities that they would charge a fortune to stay here so we planned to stay one night, grab the things we needed and wait for the right winds in a bay somewhere. After the authorities met us to help us get tied up to the laid moorings we noticed an large selection of French liveaboards, one with 3 children. The harbourmaster asked how long we intended to stay, I said it depends on the price...his response was that it is very cheap (6 euro a night)...so I guess were here until the winds are perfect for us. It is days like this that the romantic idea of permanent liveaboard is incredibly tempting. I love meeting up with these floating hippies. Locals and livaboards alike, we were welcomed with friendly smiles and so much help. Within half an hour we had a phone number for gas, water and electric hooked up, a local map and directions to the laundrette. The port police were polite and pleasant but did everything by the book absolutely so we had to dig through all sorts to find some documents that hadnt been requested in well over 6 years. The 24 hour toilet and shower block looks nasty but it has hot water so well brave it very soon. It is an old Venetian harbour mostly crammed with local fishing boats and local yachts but with a small quay for visitors...8 including us with room for not too many more. Our charts and ilot book come with such a small section on this huge island...I dont think I really realised what this meant when reading through early in the trip. It is such a challenging place to sail, with winds that kick up out of nowhere from all sorts of directions against the general direction with sudden ferocity and very very few ports with adequate depths or room for visitors. It is hard to tell if the sailing aspect here is dampened by the lack of facility or the lack of facility exists because people are unwilling to take on the challenge. We found it very easy to get here but incredibly difficult to traverse or get off again. It is a lovely place but Captain Caveman agrees that if we came here again, we would fly and rent a car :P. The harbour here is just gorgeous. Some of the buildings around the edge date from the 13th Century still intact, others have been incorporated into modern structure like in Navpaktos and others have been built to tastefully blend in..Im glad we pushed through all the way, we feel elated we have made it to just about the end of the island, we certainly have a great place to make off for Kythira when the wind is right and the salty seadog French hippie seafolk really liven the atmosphere. It seems like the perfect time and place to relax a little, get washed, get clean...all of us including poor JC who has suffered worst in the water shortage. There is no point in opening my shop again before Christmas. I can finish the work on my table and take some time off to get the place nice for Christmas and spend quality time with the kids. Today is not a day to explore really. Today is time to sit with a beer and anticipate our pickled octopus and BBQ mackerel for dinner.
Posted on: Wed, 17 Dec 2014 13:36:29 +0000
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