Big Wednesday my version I went to work like every other day but - TopicsExpress

Big Wednesday my version I went to work like every other day but today was different I knew a big swell was hitting the California coast. But on Monday I promised my boss that I would not call in sick du to a fast paced job we had just started. Why did I do that ? So true to my word I went to work in holly weird and finished my day at 4 :30 Jamed home called my wife when I was 5 min from home my wife put my board in my truck and had my truck warmed up when I got there . Got to creek paddled Out caught a few bombs and then took like 30 on the head broke my leash and swam in great day thank you lord for getting me here.

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