(Continued) I had heard of the Devidhura festival when I used to live here, and always wanted to go, but never made it. In general it is a festival like many temple festivals in India: many people come from the whole region, as youll see in some of the photos; and there is special worship, crowds going to have darshan in the temple (sight of the Deity, which is a blessing), vendors everywhere, food, music, dance, etc. But the spectacle here is unique. At one oclock sharp Indian time (read well after two actually) it begins. Groups of young men (some older, but in a moment youll know why it is mostly young men) from four different villages parade onto the central plaza between the temple and the town, and then they begin a battle. Up until last year they threw stones at each other, but last year the government stepped in and stopped (almost) stone-throwing and substituted Asian pears (nashpatis). I say almost, because this year, as the fight grew in intensity, groups started gathering big stones and throwing them. Those who are injured are carried in to the Devi in the temple, and then treated in a clinic on the ground floor of the pavillion next to the temple (the multistoried structure pictured in the previous post). But Im getting ahead of myself. Those who participate have to go on a partial fast for one month before the battle -- no non-vegetarian food (the people in the mountains eat meat when they can get it), and other diet restrictions. Strict celibacy for one month, along with prayers, etc. And before the worship begins they do worship (puja). Then, again, there is a ceremonial but highly energetic parade onto the plaza -- the closest thing to it in America that I know is the charged atmosphere of a football team coming out onto the field to begin a big match. But this has a religious element as well. The belief is that, through the grace of the Goddess, one will either remain unscathed or the wounds will heal quickly. Even if one is injured, itll be a badge of honor. The whole thing sounds, to the modern sensibility, quite barbaric, but we have to remember that such ritualized battles were once common around the world: witness the Native Americans. But it was common in Europe and other parts of the world, as well. Here, in the first two photos, you see part of the crowds that have gathered, and down around the ceremonial gates, the warriors beginning to gather, some of them with their wicker shields. Thousands and thousands of Asian pears (hard) are spread around the plaza, and then the battle begins. It is incredible to see: at any one moment there are hundreds of pears flying in the air -- thrown high and long. And they throw hard. We could see the air filled with pears, but that doesnt come in a cellphone photo, unfortunately. In the last two photos you seem some of the action, but there are many more throwing that these details show.
Posted on: Wed, 03 Sep 2014 04:56:59 +0000