Day 25, Jan 22nd, 65 kms today, 1220 kms total Day 26, Jan 23rd, 60 kms today, 1280 kms total A tough, hot, hilly but truly great two days of riding to end up in this paradise of a coastal town, Caleta Tortel, which unexpectedly has a Mediterranean feel to it. The morning in Cochrane got started over breakfast with the hotel owner, Sarita, telling me her whole life story. We hit 1969, when she arrived in Cochrane, after about an hour. There was nothing in the town in those years, and her husband brought in the first car, a Land Rover, overland from Puerto Tranquilo carving out a trail along the Baker river that 20 years later was used as the basis of the Carretera Austral. By the time I extricated myself and had the bike ready it was already around midday so I thought I may as well have lunch. After a 3 course lunch which included a couple of cervezas, sopaipillas, meat, aggregados I set off, feeling heavy and a tad woozy. In fact, it felt like I was dragging a lead balloon - I barely made it up the first hill out of town. At some point about 20 kms in I was having an existential crisis - I can barely go 100 yards, what the hell am I thinking trying to do this ride? I staggered along, at one point even having a lie down. By early afternoon I was having full blown stomach cramps, but after a long, unpleasant stop in the woods I started to feel a bit better. After 65 kms I found a nice camping spot by a little stream around 9pm. I didnt feel much like dinner so just busted out the tent and went straight to bed. I got up a few times as I was thirsty as all heck, at one point I remember crawling to the stream and lapping up about a gallon of water under the stars and moon. I was but a howl away from being the Grey Wolf reincarnated. I cant remember much about the scenery - valleys, rivers, bridges, snow capped mountains. I took some photos. I woke up the next day feeling much better, but didnt have breakfast until about 20 kms into the ride. At one point the road meets up with the enchanting turquoise waters of my old friend the Rio Baker. After about 45 kms there was a fork - either to Puerto Yungal and then Villa OHiggins, or a 20 km detour to Caleta Tortel. Id heard nice things about the town so opted for the detour. And wow what a unique, wonderful, enchanting town. Its built up on the side of the hills at the end of a fjord, with a boardwalk that hugs the coastline, at times on stilts above the water. Walking the boardwalk for many kms, past jettys and boats and houses up on the cliff, around a bay with anchored sailboats and ships, I got to a magical beach with people making bonfires as the sun set and twilight set in. Liz, lets talk, I want to retire in this town!! My stomach woes over I ordered salmon for dinner and foolishly had wine - a bottle of vino blanco (they didnt serve it by the glass). Thats definitely not in the touring cyclist handbook. Tomorrow I aim to get to the 6pm ferry at Puerto Yungal, which is about 50 kms away. After that, by all accounts, its a spectacular but difficult 2 days to Villa OHiggins. So Ill likely not be posting for the next 3 days or so. Hopefully youll be able to see me clicking along on the satellite link. If not, Liz, I may I have decided to retire early...
Posted on: Sat, 24 Jan 2015 12:23:08 +0000
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