Day 29 continued - last 25 km Binga-Chunga 97km The last 25km of today was a treat. The road from Siabuwa to Mujere is an absolute wonderland of contrasts and because we had taken a different route to the gps track find ourselves winding through an escarpment of valleys, saddles and ridges, every corner we turn is like a pop-up book of new vistas and we are silent as we gluttonously drink in the panoramic sight sensations at every turn. We had planned to ride 10km of tomorrows route but cant stop ourselves, we are greedy for more and keep riding and looking and saying just to the top of that next hill or lets do one more corner and soon 25km is done and we come around the corner at the top of a winding escarpment and have to stop to take it all in. We both agree that one of the biggest misconceptions is that the Zambezi valley is restricted to Mana Pools, Chewore and the camps below the Kariba gorge but this is it, this is so Zambezi valley, the bush even smells the same and the views at this escarpment are huge. We call the day and Gareth picks the camp site on a ledge smack bang in the middle of this panorama like we have been dropped into a 3D movie. There is a village way down the bottom we can see and occasionally hear cattle bells or a dog bark. The Tonga villages are picturesque, no wonder every artist in the world wants to paint them...and we are reminded that a few generations ago these people were relocated from their homes alongside the river and forced to move up the valley as the lake waters rose. Luckily for us they dont seem too cross about it and the villagers who pass our camp are friendly and chatty. This particular village is called Chunga. We are overwhelmed by the beauty and symmetry of it all. And as if there wasnt enough providence going around a vehicle comes silently around the corner and pulls to a stop at our camp site. A National Parks unit has been deployed from Chizarira to the Lake shore 60km away with Wildlife Officer Mhiripiri in charge seconded by Officer Sibanda. They stop to see who is camping at the side of the road and when we tell them our story and intentions they beg for a few litres of diesel as they are terribly short of fuel for their anti-poaching operation tonight.....They were so quiet around the corner because they were free-wheeling down the hill to save some fuel!! We tried to siphon some out of the vehicle but failed and had to send them off with a personal promise to bring them at least 500L diesel for anti poaching operations when we can raise it. ...A cheer went up from the scouts on the back of the truck at this promise and we heard them singing all the way down the mountain. Chizarira is not on our list of Parks we are fund raising for as we dont travel through their Park but these intrepid warriors moved us deeply and I swear I will go hunting for diesel when I have finished this ride so fuel companies of Zimbabwe beware! We will say goodnight on this note. As we camp out by our warm fire, with a hot meal and beautiful view after our days work we think of the Chizarira Park scouts creeping along the valley floor looking for snares and signs of sinister intent, prepared to go into combat on behalf of our wildlife and not knowing if they have enough diesel to get back to their homes when patrol is done. ....very very humbling. I am proud to be a Zimbabwean and call these men countrymen. Bumi tomorrow. The lakeshore awaits and Catherine has promised us chocolate-something for desert! Young Henry Mackilwaine from the Matusadona Anti-Poaching Project (M..A.P.P) will meet us at Bumi to boat us across the Ume River complete with bikes and guide us through the hallowed ground of the Matusadona foreshore. But for tonight Gareth has issued us one beer each from his secret stash and we have a toast to my nephew Phil. Happy 21st darling PJ, stay as special as you are. ... (and remember you get that from Aunty Lin!!¿◇☆) Night all Zimboundary xx
Posted on: Mon, 04 Aug 2014 15:22:18 +0000
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