Day 4: I live in Houston, Texas, one of the largest cities in America, by both population and weight. Between suffocating humidity and daily hour-long traffic jams, Houstonians just do not walk. So, today’s twelve-block trek to the Abel Santa María and Fragua Martiana was not exactly what I had in mind for my exploration of Cuba. Regardless of how angry my feet are, however, today’s exploration was the first step (or rather many steps) into discovering what it means to be Cuban. Such exploration began with the required stops at the assigned museums, where I rode my first Cuban elevator and understood practically nothing of what was being said. Despite my last name, I was not raised in a Spanish-speaking household, so the rapid, abbreviated Cuban accent has significantly challenged my rudimentary language skills. While the museums were interesting and offered structured insight into the history of Cuba, the walk back proved to be equally, if not more educational. As we trudged our way back up La Rampa, we first stopped at Coppelia for ice cream. Of the three other individuals in my group, Nick Merrill, Shira, and Aubrey, I was the only person familiar with the film Fresa y Chocolate, so my peers did not understand my excitement for the dessert. However, Coppelia did offer a first real insight into the reality of the dual economy in Cuba, as the guards at the entrance immediately noticed our tourist appearance and directed us to the CUC line. Beyond a lesson in economics, Coppelia also exposed what I commonly refer to as the “Cuban gaze,” the distinction of tourists from locals based on physical appearance. We did not look Cuban; therefore, we were automatically tourists, which makes me question the feasibility of the true Cuban experience I’m seeking. Twenty-six more days to blend into Cuba.
Posted on: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 06:46:52 +0000
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