GARMENTS MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY-I Garments Term and Definition: Allowance: The addition as extra to the exact measurement of the body with which a garment is made out. Basic block: The pattern which is made in accordance with the area of different part of the human body and their flexes and folds without allowance and style. Bar tack: Re-stitching over a very short length to give and increase the area a high load bearing strength. For example belt loops and eh corners of pocket are bar tacked. Blind stitch: Special kind of stitch that does not surface at the face side but the sewing thread is visible of backside. This stitch does not penetrate and perforate fully. Sample: The garment which is need for bulk production is called sample garments. Approved Sample: According to specification sheet, the sample which is approved by buyer is called approved sample. Counter sample: The sample which is followed by approved sample is called Counter sample. For smooth production it is necessary. Pattern: It is a hard paper which is made by following each individual component for a style of garments. Working Pattern: To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension. Production Pattern: To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension along with allowance. Sample garment: Buyer gives design to the manufacturer. Then he make pattern according to the design and a sample make and send it to the buyer for approval to know whether it is according to the dimension or not. Disposable garments: The garments which are not used further after using ones i.e. the garments which are thrown after using ones are called disposable ferments. Accessories or Trimming: Without fabric, it includes thread, button, interlining, zipper, main label, care label etc. Seam: The join between two or more pieces of material. Seams are usually formed by sewing but welding, adhesives or other joining means are sometimes used. Stitch: Stitch is the ‘unit’ formed by sewing thread from a sewing machine. N.S.A: No seam allowance. C.M (Cost of making) order: Buyer will provide all the fabric & accessories. Manufacturers have to make only garment & he will get charge of making only. C.M.T (Cost of making with trimming) order: Manufacturers have to manage all accessories items. He will get charge of trimming & making charge. F.O.B (Foreign on Boat) order: Buyer gives only dollar. Manufacturers have to manage fabric, accessories & traveling cost to send it up to sea or air. E.P.B: (Exporter Promotion Bureau): EPB is a government agency. They distribute the total quota for a particular year to the BGMEA members. They distribute the quota according to the volume of that garments and how many quantity they have exported for the last financial year. L/C: Letter of credit. It is a commitment by an opening bank on behalf of the importer in favour of the exporter that the bills drawn by them on the importer countries covering the shipment of specified items & quality of goods within stated period will be paid in exchange of documents under certain terms & condition. There are two kinds of L/C- 1. Master L/C 2. Back to Back L/C 1. Master L/C: When a L/C is opened to import the goods from exporter to the buyer, is called Master L/C. 2. Back to back L/C: When a L/C is opened against master L/C to import or collect raw materials to produce and supply the garment is called back to back L/C. C &F: Clearing related with import & forwarding related with export. If the price of goods is mentioned in invoice including transport cost is called C &F. Bonded Warehouse facilities: These facilities allow export oriented factories to import their raw materials duty free. C.I.F: If the price of goods is mentioned in invoice with including transports cost and insurance cost. Invoice: After sending the garments goods to the importer country, the documents mentioning the price is send to the buyer for collecting price. Grain line: A straight line marked on a pattern piece to ensure warp or wale direction to ensure the pattern piece is correctly positioned and cut to achieve the required appearance in the finished garments i.e. Pattern pieces normally carry a line is called grain line. When pattern pieces are laid down on a piece of cloth, the grain line should be parallel to the warp if the cloth is woven and if the cloth is knitted it should be parallel to the wale. When pattern pieces are laid across the piece of the cloth, the grain line should be parallel to the weft or coarse direction. Ligne no: It is the measuring unit of the button. It indicates the diameter of the button. If diameter increase then ligne no is increased. We know, 11 mm diameter = 16 ligne. 1 mm diameter = = 1.46 ligne. Applique: Some extra fabric is added to the face side of the garments for increasing the beauty of garments. Grading: To make pattern of different sizes from master pattern. Hanger Appeal: The garments which are hanged on hanger or kept on hanger during selling, how much beautiful to see in that condition is used hanger appeal. Off grain: It is a fault. If any weft yarn of fabric do not states in 90° angle with selvedge is called off grain. If grain line of pattern piece is not placed or cut parallel to grain line of fabric is called off grain. Dummy: It is a model exactly similar to the shape of the body of a man. It is usually used to check fitting of garments. Different sizes dummy are found for men’s, ladies, kids etc. Scye: The measurement of arm hole is called scye. C.F.L.(Centre Front Line/Length): The length between top button centre and bottom of the front. C.B.L.(Centre Back Line): The length between middle point of collar and bottom of a shirt (backside) id called C.B.L. B.G.M.E.A: Bangladesh Garments Manufacturing & Exporters Association. B.T.M.C: Bangladesh Textile Mills Corporation. L.D.C: Least Developed Country. W.T.O: World Trade Agreement. B.G.W.U.C: Bangladesh Garments Worker Unit Council. How to prepare a price quotation for buyers: There are three processes for fixation of export prices which are as under- 1. FOB (Free on board): It is the value of the product which is claimed or fixed without the cost of transportation of eh goods. 2. C&F value (Cost &Freight): It is the value of the product which is claimed or fixed including the cost of transportation of the goods. FOB (Cost) +Freight=C&F 3. CIF (Cost, insurance & freight) value: It is the value of the product which is claimed or fixed including the cost of transportation and insurance. C&F + Insurance=CIF Import Documentation: In order to release imported goods from the port the following documents has to be submitted by a C& F agents to the customs authority- 1. Bill of entry 2. Copy of bill of lading (BL) 3. Copy of invoice. 4. Packing list 5. Certificate of origin(CO) 6. UD/UP(Utilization Declaration/ Utilization Permission) 7. Copy of master L/C 8. Letter of credit authorization(LCA) 9. Proforma invoice 10. Copy of insurance cover note 11. PSI(Pre-shipment inspection)S 12. any other documents. Export Documents: The documents which to be submitted by a C & F agent for export. An exporter should have to submit the following documents to the customs authority- 1. Shipping bill of entry. 2. Export L/C 3. Packing list 4. Insurance 5. UD (Utilization Declaration) 6. VBF-QA Form to be supplied by the C & F AGENT 7. Export permission form (EXP)
Posted on: Fri, 29 Nov 2013 19:45:07 +0000