Here is the Charlie Trotters entry for the 1996 edition of Best Restaurants Chicago CHARLIE TROTTERS K/R 20/20 FRENCH/AMERICAN/ECLECTIC CHICAGO NEAR NORTH $$$ When talk turns to the subject of Chicagos destination restaurants, CHARLIE TROTTERS is right up there at the top of the list. Trotters cooking cuts a broad path across traditional concepts. His restaurant offers diners ala carte selections from his two degustation menus: The Grand Menu, or the Vegetable menu. The selections change nightly. A recent selection included Yellow fin tuna for a first course, plated with pieces of lobster and a garnish of daikon sprouts, jicama, cinnamon cap mushrooms and a shellfish vinaigrette dressing. Next might come Japanese style yellowtail paired with bok choy and a ginger infused soy sauce. Main course selections in the Grand Menu could include locally farmed rabbit roasted with salsify, braised red Swiss chard and shitake mushrooms mixed into quinoa, with the juices from the rabbit serving as a sauce. In another recipe, beef tenderloin might be plated with braised cabbage, Brussels sprouts and a potato puree, again using the natural meat juices. The vegetable menu recently brought diners a pair of risottos, saffron and red wine infused, with roasted porcini mushrooms, a mince of celery and fennel. In another vegetable recipe, Trotter creates a torte of wild field mushrooms and root vegetables with a reduction of trumpet mushrooms and red wine emulsion for his sauces. Trotter may also prepare a carpaccio of Red Snapper instead of tenderloin in a style of sashimi that uses a mix of Asian noodles for texture, and a sesame oil flavored mayonnaise. Or, consider his use of wild mushrooms in a stylized ragout that serves as binder for diced cubes of sweetbreads in a leafy spinach wrap. It becomes clear that Chef Trotters conceptions are based on a confluence of tradition and that spark of ingenuity that marks The Chef/Owner and his kitchen staff with more than commonplace ability. Desserts are not to be overlooked. Blueberries may be showcased on a fresh tarte dough, held in place by Amaretto Sabayon. But, it is the Baked Chocolate Mousse that is truly unforgettable. Baking gives the mousse a heavier character. It comes with a chocolate wafer that stands high over the platter much like a goosenecked tuile. The finishing touch is an intense burnt caramel sauce that simply could not be better. HOSPITALITY 5/5 DECOR 4/4 FOOD 10/10 VALUE /1 CHARLIE TROTTERS 816 West Armitage Avenue, Chicago; PHONE: 773-248-6228; HOURS: Tues-Thurs 530p-10p, Fri-Sat 515p-11p CARDS: All majors; Reservations required; Full bar seats five in a small reception area; Valet and tight street parking; Private party facilities available for up to 36 in second floor dining room; Jackets required for gentlemen; Entire restaurant is No Smoking; TROUBLESHOOTER: Charlie Trotter (Chef\Owner), Mitchell Schmieding (Director of Operations)
Posted on: Tue, 05 Nov 2013 22:52:50 +0000
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