Hiking haven: The Ricketts Glen State Park in northeastern Pennsylvania Autumn shows its true colours Fresh air and blue skies are easy tonics for the stressed-out city life. Still, I was in a pretty foul mood when I rolled into Ricketts Glen State Park in this scenic, woodsy corner of northeastern Pennsylvania. Equally distracted by my growling stomach and the country tunes wailing on my car radio, I’d missed the rustic carved wood entrance sign opposite Red Rock Scoops ice cream shop on Route 118. Google Maps had vaporised along with my cellphone service and, seriously, who still keeps paper maps in the glove box? Even after a kindly park ranger provided step-by-step directions to the Lake Rose Trailhead Parking lot, the best place from which to start a hike to the park’s famed Ganoga Falls, I’d managed to get lost several times. (I later learned there’s a really cool interactive map on the DCNR – Department of Conservation and Natural Resources, Pennsylvania – website that could have come to my rescue.) But finally, I found it. The road leading to Waterfall Heaven. Soon, I was backing into a space at the crowded Lake Rose lot. Glorious shades of brick-red, maroon and brilliant scarlet at Lake Jean. Glorious shades of brick-red, maroon and brilliant scarlet at Lake Jean. Or so I thought: I’d actually pulled into Beach Lot #2, where boaters, swimmers and anglers go when planning a day on the park’s Lake Jean. This actually turned out OK for two reasons: The concession stand had cheap cheeseburgers, and a friendly couple from upstate New York I met in the parking lot had great words of advice. Don’t forget a water bottle, they cautioned, as there are no refreshments on the trail. And go for the 3.2-mile (5.1km) upper loop of the Falls Trail instead of the 7.2-mile (11.6km) full loop, which took the pair almost three hours to complete. You’ll still see most of the good stuff, including the majestic 94-foot (28.7m) Ganoga Falls, in a picturesque glen among towering pines, hemlocks and oaks, but with half the effort – a physical exertion, they assured me with damp brows and quivering legs, that’s quite substantial when you hike the entire, rocky distance. After hiking it, I would recommend ditching the flip-flops and sneakers for sturdier shoes or hiking boots and resist the urge to take short cuts or venture out on ledges. Some of the terrain is pretty treacherous. Historic park Adventurous hikers have been sweating their way through old-growth timber to Ganoga Falls for decades, even before the park and its many recreational facilities opened for business in 1944. Discovered in the 1860s by fishermen, the falls date to the last ice age, when increased flow from glaciers cut deep gorges. It wasn’t until Colonel Robert Bruce Ricketts named and built a system of trails connecting the series of 22 waterfalls in the early 1890s, however, that they became one of Pennsylvania’s treasures – and the ideal setting in which to enjoy the fall colours. Lake Jean offers a picturesque place to boat and fish while enjoying fall colours. Lake Jean offers a picturesque place to boat and fish while enjoying fall colours. Ricketts Glen State Park – which covers more than 13,000 acres (5,261ha) – is gorgeous any time of year. But it’s particularly fetching in autumn, when its many black tupelo (gum), dogwood and oak trees turn glorious shades of brick-red, maroon and brilliant scarlet. This year has provided a very favourable growing season so trees across Penn’s Woods are healthy and vigorous, assuring a very colourful autumn. (For a weekly fall foliage report, visit leafpeepers/pa.htm) The park also has a nice sense of history. A Civil War veteran who distinguished himself at the Battle of Gettysburg, Ricketts grew up in nearby Orangeville, a tiny hamlet nearby that today is famous for its twin covered bridges. Built in 1884, the picturesque East and West Paden bridges are one of the only two remaining twin covered bridges in the country. After the war, Ricketts started buying timber land in Columbia, Luzerne and Sullivan counties. A member of the Wyoming Historical and Geological Society, he named many of the falls after the Indian tribes that at one time lived in the area: Delaware, Seneca, Tuscarora, Huron. Others wear the names of family members or friends. Ganoga Falls, which cascades 94 feet onto the rocks below, is the highest and most spectacular. It means “water on the mountain” in the Seneca language. After his death, Ricketts’ heirs sold much of the land to the Pennsylvania Game Commission. But not all. It wasn’t until 1942 that they finally sold the Falls and the Glens area to the state for use as a state park. The Glens became a registered National Natural Landmark in 1969, and in 1993 was slated a State Park Natural Area. Activities galore Most of the Glens’ 22 waterfalls, scattered along 26 miles (42km) of trail marked by zig-zaggy switchbacks and dramatic drop-offs, are visible from the Falls Trail. In all, there are 11 short and long, easy and hard, well-marked trails. The trails can be deceptive. A quarter of a mile (400m) into the Falls Trail, with the very soft, fairly level terrain cushioning my shoes, I was marvelling at how great the path would be for a trail run. Then, I started down the hill toward the first of the seven falls I’d eventually encounter on my hike, Mohawk Falls, and all bets were off. I was praying I wouldn’t slip on the velvety green moss or twist an ankle on the narrow stone steps that at times seem awfully close to the edge of the trail. The East and West Paden covered bridges in Forks, Columbia County, Pennsylvania, are one of only two remaining sets of twin covered bridges in the country. The East and West Paden covered bridges in Forks, Columbia County, Pennsylvania, are one of only two remaining sets of twin covered bridges in the country. But the hike was worth it: the sheer awesomeness of Ganoga Falls and its thunderous cascade of water. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a prettier sight in a state park, Niagara Falls excluded. As sketchy as it was going down, it was tougher still climbing back up. Most of the hikers I passed on my descent – many with walking sticks – didn’t look all that happy. Their expressions read “I’m gonna finish this” instead of “Having a great time!” I’m kidding, of course. Hiking the trail is a great time and you don’t have to be in particularly great shape to do it. Along with kids (some on their parents’ backs), seniors were well represented. From the Lake Rose Trailhead lot, it took me about 30 minutes to hike down and maybe 10 minutes longer to climb back up. And no trips to the ER. Even if you miss the fall colours, this park is a gem. Besides hiking, the park offers swimming (May to September) camping, boating, fishing, birding, hunting and riding trails (BYO horse). In winter, there’s cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, ice fishing on Lake Jean, snowmobiling and ice climbing up the falls. And when the park closes for the evening, or you’re simply tired of hoofing it? There’s plenty of other ways to spend a few happy hours in the area including browsing for antiques, wine tasting and eating good food. — Pittsburgh Post-Gazette/Tribune News Service Practical details Getting there: Opening hours for Ricketts Glen State Park are sunrise to sunset, year-round. Free parking and hiking maps are available throughout. Lodging: Hiking and camping go hand-in-hand, so the park is happy to oblige with 120 tent and trailer campsites, with access to hot showers and flush toilets. There also are 10 cabins for rent available year-round. (pa.reserveworld). However, if your idea of a good night’s sleep includes mattresses, linens and indoor plumbing, there are almost two dozen motels and hotels to choose from within a half-hour drive of the park. For bed-and-breakfast types, there are a dozen within easy driving distance of the park, including the stellar Inn at Turkey Hill in Bloomsburg (innatturkeyhill). If you enjoy rural settings, the uber-romantic Pump House B&B outside of Bloomsburg will delight with its lovely creek-side rooms outfitted with antiques. Food: The Old Filling Station in Benton comes highly recommended by locals, as does the Texas-style barbecue at Smoke House Barb-B-Que. Strevig’s Family Restaurant has traditional American fare. I had surprisingly good spring rolls at Bloomn’ Thai. Activities: In addition to 26 miles (42km) of hiking trails that vary in difficulty from very easy (Evergreen Trail) to difficult (Falls Trail), the park offers fishing and boating on 245-acre (99ha) Lake Jean. Other ways to spend the day include antiquing, shopping for seasonal goodies at local farm stands and tastings at several wineries, including Colonel Ricketts Hard Cider Winery in Benton. Columbia County also is famous for its 25 covered bridges. Park information: dcnr.state.pa.us/stateparks Columbia County information: itourcolumbiamontour Would you like to be paid to write articles on, or take photos of, your adventures? We are interested in land, water and air activities like trekking, scuba diving, paragliding, running, sailing, windsurfing, white water rafting, rock climbing, kayakking ... you get the drift. Apart from describing what a great time you had, you can also share ideas on safety, equipment, training/preparation and eco-friendly practices. Write to Andrew Sia at [email protected].
Posted on: Sat, 25 Oct 2014 23:48:15 +0000