I have now gone two camps higher than before and have carried 25 kilos of gear to, and also slept at, my highest altitude ever, 5,540 meters. I was within summiting distance of Aconcagua at this camp called Nido de Condor (Condor’s Nest) when I was forced to descend due to high forecast winds. I had actually planned to make the summit attack directly from Nido, instead of going to the next and last camp, Colera, which is 400 meters higher. This was to have been a 16 to 20 hour summit day. Unfortunately, the forecast called for four days of dangerous winds with gusts up to 130 k.p.h. As Nido is utterly unprotected, I decided to retreat to Mulas to wait out the winds, with every intention of returning to Nido when the weather improved. As it turned out, this tactical retreat back to 4,400 meters turned out to be quite providential. My body chose a very odd and inconvenient time to develop a terrible allergy to the same sunscreen I have used now for four years. The allergy kept getting worse day after day. Finally, on my last day there, I could not see hardly at all, with my eyes squinting and on fire, nor could I breathe well what with my sinuses getting all jammed up. I was truly in a damned if you do and damned if you don’t situation. I was getting sun fried from above as well as below, as the sun was of course reflecting off of the snow. Anyway, I really could not proceed with sunscreen nor could I proceed without it. As consequence, my face got badly burnt and cratered and I am still suffering bleeding issues. The night after I made my temporary return to Mulas, I developed a very severe cough that would not go away. I coughed through that entire night and slept not one wink. Obviously one cannot proceed with such a cough. So, I was forced to retreat to below 3,000 meters, which is standard protocol, as well as needing to go to the hospital as soon as possible. This unceasing cough meant an end to the climb. When I got back to Mendoza I was hospitalized overnight as a precautionary measure while they ran many tests, which turned out to be inconclusive. On my return to Buenos Aires more tests were performed. We now believe we understand why I had such trouble coughing. I have had numerous sinus infections and allergy problems over the last six months. This has unfortunately led to the growth of polyps in my sinuses, which must be removed if I wish to climb again. In an oxygen deprived environment it takes very little to set the body off and in my case, it was most likely the polyps. Surgery is scheduled for next week. While my effort may have failed, I am still happy with my progress. I had never before carried 25 kilos of gear and food to 5,440 meters. Before then, I had only carried gear up to and had slept at 5,000 meters. Also, the one night I slept at Nido I slept well, though this may have been due to utter exhaustion. I did all this on my own in this solo attempt and feel that I did very well considering my two health problems. I am confident that the summit is well within my ability, assuming that is both good weather and good health. I have an excellent surgeon to resolve one health issue and at the suggestion of the dermatologist I consulted this week I with am switching to a very expensive French sunscreen called La Roche-Posay Anthelios. Problems arise, problems solved. Perhaps the third time will be the charm, perhaps not. I know one climber who attempted the mountain six times before he finally summited. I admire that kind of tenacity.
Posted on: Fri, 31 Jan 2014 13:44:24 +0000