Kodaikanal ( Tamil: கோடைக்கானல்) is a city[1] and a Taluk division of Dindigul district in the state of Tamil Nadu, India. The earliest residents of Kodaikanal were the Paliyan tribal people. The earliest specific references to Kodaikanal and the Palani Hills are found in Tamil Sangam literature of the early Christian era. [2] Modern Kodaikanal was established as a hill station by American missionaries in 1845, as a refuge from the high temperatures and tropical diseases of the plains. [3] In the 20th century a few elite Indians came to realize the value of this enchanting place and started relocating here. Kodaikanal is sometimes referred to as the Princess of Hill stations. Much of the local economy is now based on the Hospitality industry , serving national and international tourists. [4] Kodaikanal Bazzar Road, (Annai Salai), 1910 Etymology The Tamil language word கோடைக்கானல், refers to a sanatorium at the top of Kodaikanal, the southern ridge of the Palani hills more than 7,000 ft. high. [5] It is not known who first used this name or what they intended it to mean, however, in the Tamil language there are at least five meanings. The word is formed from the two separate Tamil words Kodai and kāṉal (கானல்). kāṉal means a wood on a hill- slope, [6] a dense forest or a closed forest. Another Tamil meaning for வல்லி ( Kodi) is Valli ,[7] the honey collecting daughter of the chief of the Veddas mountain tribe . In ancient times the chief and his wife prayed to the Mountain God for a girl-child. Their prayers were answered when the chief found a new-born girl child during a hunting expedition. As she was found among creeper plants, they named the child Valli and she grew up as princess of the tribe Kurinji and became the consort of lord Murugan[8] The romantic traditions of Murugan in Sangam literature are thus claimed to be associated with the name Kodaikanal. By integrating these meanings, Kodaikanal is that place at the end of Vallis forest which is a gift in the summer . Recently, tourists and locals have labeled Kodaikanal Switzerland of the East, Set of Southern Emeralds, Chilled paradise among the Hills and Summer Heaven. [9] Ancient times There is archaeological evidence of human habitation in this area before the current era (BCE). Megalithic dolmens dating from early Chera Dynasty times, earthen pots and other artifacts which have been found here prove that the earliest residents of Kodaikanal were the Palaiyar (Pazhaiyar, old ones) tribal people. Some local relics and artifacts of the Palaiyar can be seen in the Shenbaganur Museum. [10] The earliest written references to Kodaikanal and the Palani Hills are found in Tamil Sangam literature of the early Christian era. [2] The classical Tamil poetic work Kuṟuntokai , the second book of the anthology Ettuthokai , contains poems dealing with matters of love and separation. It evokes the geographic thinai of the mountainous region of Kurinji . It is the scene of lovers union at midnight, a forest rich with lakes, waterfalls, teak, bamboo and sandalwood. In this region millet grows and wild bees are a source of honey. Murugan by – Raja Ravi Varma Love in this setting is exemplified by Murugan, and his consort, Valli, the honey collecting daughter of a Kurinji mountain dweller. He rides a Peacock, the bird of the mountains. The name of the region, Kurinji , derives from the name of the famous flower Kurinji found only in the lofty hills of Tamil country. [8] The once in ten or twelve years blossom of the Kurinji is an event of jubilation and purity symbolizing the frenzy of a sudden love shared, in concert with the unleashed forces of nature: the amorous dance of peacocks, their echoing cries, the splash of waterfalls, the roar of savage beasts. The lovers hold each other tighter still and forget the dangers of the mountain path. [8] One of the Kuṟuntokai poems: குறிஞ் சி – தலை வன் கூற்ற ு கொங் குதேர் வாழ்க் கை அ ஞ்சி றைத் தும்பி காமம் செப்பா து கண் டது ம ொழி மோ பயிலி யது க ெழீஇ ய நட்பி ன் மயிலி யல் செறிய ெயிற் றரிவ ை கூந் தலின் நறிய வும் உளவ ோ நீய றியும் பூவே . -இறை யனார். Kurinji (Kuruntokai – 2) Beautiful-winged bee whose life is passed in search of honey dont speak to me of desire but tell me what you really saw: Could even the flowers that you know be as full of fragrance as the hair of the woman with the even set of teeth and the peacock nature, to whom long affection binds me? – Iraiyanar [8] Kurinji The legacy of this epic Sangam love poetry is maintained by Arulmighu Dhandayuthapani Swamy Thiru Kovil, Palani at The Kurinji Andavar Temple in Kodaikanal. This holy place is famous for the Kurinji flowers which blossom nearby only once every 12 years. The deity here is called Sri Kurinji Easware . He is in fact Lord Murugan.[11] Agricultural settlers of the Palani Hills, mainly Mannadiyar (kings servants) caste, were allotted these hill lands about the 14th century by the Madurai Nayak Dynasty , according to some local people [citation needed] , though others claim that their ancestors came later as refugees from the Palani foothills who escaped from the invasions of Tippu Sultan. [10] Western settlers In 1821, the first westerner to visit Kodaikanal, a British Lieutenant, B. S. Ward, climbed up from his headquarters in the Kunnavan village of Vellagavi to Kodaikanal to survey the area on the hilly ranges of Palani. His report[12] of a healthy climate in beautiful hills with accessibility from Periyakulam encouraged the early settlers. [13] In 1834, Mr. J.C Wroughten, then Sub- Collector of Madura and Mr. C. R. Cotton, a member of the Madras Presidency — Board of Revenue, [14] climbed up the hills from Devadanapatti and built a small bungalow at the head of Adukkam pass near Shenbaganur . Dr. Robert Wight In 1836, the noted botanist Dr. Robert Wight, a Fellow of the Linnean Society of London, visited Kodaikanal and recorded his observations in the 1937 Madras Journal of Literature and Science.[15][16] He collected over 100 plant specimens in 15 days, [17] which were useful to later botanists.[18] In 1845, the first two bungalows, Sunny Side and Shelton were built by six families of American missionaries from Madurai with the help of an Englishman, Mr. Fane. In 1852, Father Louis Saint Cyr visited Kodaikanal and returned to the plains after finding only four bungalows; Baynes, Parker, Clark and Parday . In 1852, Major J. M. Partridge of the Bombay Army built himself a house in Kodai and became the first person to actually settle there. Others soon followed like Fonclair and the coffee planter, Judge Elliot. It was not until Blackburne, the Collector of Madurai, built a home there that the development of Kodai gathered pace. [19] In 1853, a group of American and British built Kodais first church building, the Anglican Church of St. Peter. [20] Sir Charles Edward Trevelyan, Governor of Madras Presidency, stayed at Kodaikanal in 1860 In 1853 only seven houses were there and the number rose to a dozen in 1861. [21] In 1860, The Governor of Madras Presidency, Sir Charles Trevelyan visited Kodaikanal and stayed in Roseneath Cottage, which is still occupied. In May 1860, Father Louis Saint Cyr returned with father Rettary and several Frenchmen, Belgians and Europeans, [18] stayed in Baynes bungalow and by September 29 had bought that place to use as a rest house for the members of Christ Church. The bungalow was renamed La-providence in honor a lady with that name who gave Rs.20,000 for reconstruction of the bungalow. La Salette Church was finished and dedicated in 1866. [22] In 1861, Major Douglas Hamilton recorded 114 species of birds in Kodaikanal and discovered two new ones-the Laughing Thrush and the Kodaikanal White-bellied Shortwing .[23] In 1862, David Coit Scudder arrived in Kodaikanal. He was an American missionary who had been influenced in boyhood to come to India by Rev. Dr. John Scudder, Sr. and was in charge of the large and important station of Periyakulam. He had endeared himself to the Christians of the large village congregations of that station. An enthusiastic young American, upon arrival at Kodai, his emotions overcame him when, as he recalled: On November 19, 1862, David Scudder drowned in the Vaigai River between Andipatti & Periyakulam, 20 months after arriving in Tamil Nadu., [24][25] Interment was in the old Anglican Churchyard, at Kodaikanal. The inscription on his headstone is still clearly legible. It reads: In 1863, acting on a suggestion of Sir Vere Levinge, then Collector of Madurai, a lake was formed by blocking a stream. From then on, Kodaikanal has been developing. [21] In 1867, Major J. M. Partridge of Bombay Army imported Australian Eucalyptus and Wattle trees to Kodaikanal. In 1871, the new Governor of Madras, Lord Napier visited. His bungalow was named Napier Villa .[20] These early settlements and visits by important people established Kodais legitimacy among the Western residents of Tamil Nadu as an accepted alternative to Ootacamund as a summer retreat. [13] Coakers walk, 1900 In 1872, Lt. Coaker cut a path along the steep south east facing ridge which commends a magnificent view of the plains below. The 1 km (.6 mi) path was named after him as Coakers Walk .[20] He is often remembered as the man who prepared the most exceptional, the most descriptive map of Kodai. [27] In 1879, seventy-five Europeans came to Kodai for the season. That year Murrays Guide described Kodaikanal as a settlement of only 10 – 15 small ugly houses. [17] Later many American and British families visited and decided to remain in the temperate hill station. In 1883, Kodaikanal had 615 permanent residents. It also became a regular summer retreat for many American Missionaries and European diplomats who came here primarily to escape the sweltering summer of the plains. [18] Among them, William Waterbury Scudder D.D. was a missionary who joined the Arcott Mission in 1852, retired in 1894, and was buried at Kodaikanal in 1900. [28] In 1895, the American Madurai Mission built the Union Church building. [20] In 1901, The first observations were commenced at the Kodaikanal Observatory . [29] In 1909, when the Guide to Kodaikanal was published by E.M.M.L., there were 151 houses, most of them anything but small and ugly and a post office, churches, clubs, schools and shops. [17] In 1914, the present ghat road was compeleted and was subsequently improved. In 1989, the total length of the roads on the hills was more than 45 km. [21] In April 1915, Dr. Van Allen raised funds to construct the first unit of the hospital at the entrance of Coakers walk. It was named after him. Facilities got updated from time to time and now it has an X-ray machine, well equipped pathological lab, and an operation theatre with blood transfusion facilities. Dr. Ida S. Scudder with Mahatma Gandhi, 1928 Government Hospital was a small municipal hospital until 1927. Now it has X-ray, Dental, Maternity ward and other facilities. [30] In 1953, at a sprightly 82 years old, Dr. Ida S. Scudder sat in her bungalow, Hilltop , at Kodaikanal, overlooking the Vellore Christian Medical College and its hospital, which she founded, and opened a stack of letters and telegrams. Her name is a famous one in India. A letter once reached her addressed simply, Dr. Ida, India. The mail was heavier than usual because friends around the world were congratulating her on winning the Elizabeth Blackwell Citation of the New York Infirmary, as one of five outstanding women doctors of 1952. [31] She died on May 24, 1960 at age 90, of a circulatory ailment, in Kodaikanal., [32][33] Ghat road Travelers going to Kodaikanal starting their journey at Ammaianayakkanur village traveled 50 kilometers (31 mi) in 12 to 14 hours by bullock cart up to Krishnamma Nayak Thope. From there, the 18 kilometers (11 mi) journey to Kodaikanal was undertaken with conveyance by foot, horses, or Palanquins with sufficient hired coolies. An improvised Palanquin, called dholie In 1854, an improved 16 kilometers (9.9 mi) bridle path was built from Krishnamma Nayak Thope. In 1875, the Indian railways extended its line from Chennai to Tirunelveli and a train station named Kodaikanal Road was built near Ammaianayakkanur village, to facilitate visits to Kodaikanal. [18] Many started at Dindigul and began their climb to Kodai from Periyakulam. In 1862, Clements Robert Markham described his journey: By 1878, the path from Tope was extended and later completed up to Kodaikanal.[18] Laws ghat road in the early 1900s Engineer Major G. C. Law was deputed to study and submit a plan to build a moterable road to the hills. The road was finally completed in 1914 and opened for public traffic in 1916. Public buses started using the road in 1916. [20] This old horse trail is now a 7.5 meters (25 ft) wide 2 lane asphalt paved roadway rising 1,863 meters (6,112 ft) with only 2 hairpin turns. It is always well maintained. [35] The State Highway Department has designated this road as SH-156 , Kodai Ghat Road , with a length of 52.4 kilometers (32.6 mi). It begins at 10°9′10″N 77°41′30″E / 10.15278°N 77.69167°E on the Grand Southern Trunk Road (NH-45), about 8 kilometers (5.0 mi) west of Batlagundu . Also, during World War II , the Kodaikanal– Munnar Road , an evacuation road from Kodai along the hillcrest to Top Station and Munnar , then down to Calicut was built by the British because of fear of the Japanese invading India. [19] Kodaikanal lake Old Kodaikanal Lake Main article: Kodaikanal Lake In 1863, Kodaikanal Lake was created by Sir Vere Hendry Levinge, who was then the Collector of Madurai District, by damming three streams flowing into a valley. He stocked the lake with local fish and brought Kodais first boat from Tuticorin. He lived in Pambar House after his retirement. [20] Pictures taken in Kodaikanal during the early years of its settlement show the area around the lake with very few trees and a marshy landscape. The manmade lake then had no bunds.[ citation needed] In 1890, the Kodaikanal Boat Club was formed. Today there are three different Boat Clubs with a variety of boats available for hire. There is now an excellent 9 kilometers (5.6 mi) lighted and paved sidewalk and bicycle path around the lake. There are strict municipal laws against construction near the lake. Twentieth century In 1901 Kodaikanal had a population of 1,912. [36] In the 20th century a few elite Indians came to realize the value of this enchanting hill station and started relocating here. [4] Amongst the current Indian locals, there are often discussions about how their ancestors trekked and climbed the hills, from the villages in the foothills. It sometimes took them up to two full days to scale the steep valleys, braving attacks from wild animals and eventually reaching the summit of what is now Kodaikanal market, to sell their produce from the plains.
Posted on: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 18:14:09 +0000
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