LONG-winded, but this gives in great detail, the J.Hilburn difference aand why the love of the brand, starts with the shirt: When you send in an order, our system translates that order into many, many work instructions. From the fabric number to the collar choice to the measurements to the fit to the embroidery instructions. Every day, we send a big digital file to Malaysia with all of the deta...ils to make your custom shirt. In Malaysia, their system uses that data in several ways. Pattern making and fabric. · First the order puts the relevant information into the pattern making software. Here our folks, digitally create a pattern reflecting that customers unique measurements, fits and construction choices (think collars, cuffs, plackets, yokes, pockets). So now we have a pattern. · Next that file is transferred to a second operation that assembles all of those pieces digitally onto one page. They ensure good pattern matching on all of the shirt pieces and parts while also managing the fabric consumption (an aside, we have all of our fabrics digitally mastered – so you can do pattern matching on the computer screen). So now all of the pieces are arranged digitally. · Now that file is printed on a very big rectangular sheet of paper (called a marker). We have three plotters that run non-stop printing out these markers. Markers are then laid on top of the correct fabric. Cutting and sewing · That fabric and pattern is then taken to one of several teams of cutters. Cutters work in teams of two cutting each and every shirt. They start at opposite corners of the marker – and meet in the middle. They use scissors made from Japanese steel that are sharpened almost daily. All of the cut pieces are then placed in plastic baskets that have an RFID chip mounted in it. The RFID chip has all of the order details encoded to it. · This basket is then passed between sequential sewing operations. The RFID chip allows each station to “read” the order. A 7 inch LCD display at every station displays the operation to be completed, inspection points for the previous operation and inspection procedures for their operation. · Along the operation interlining is added, collar embroidery is sewn, button holes are sewn and buttons are attached – as other parts are assembled and then attached to make a completed shirt. · You may be interested to know – all of our sewing machines have vacuum tubes on their feet to remove any errant threads. In addition, we have converted to only dry sewing machines – we do not have any oil in our sewing machines (it can cause dirt to stick to shirts). Inspection and pack out. · After the shirt is completed, it is inspected. Each and every measurement is written on an inspection sheet. In addition, each aspect of construction is also verified. These inspection sheets are retained in case we need them in the future. · Each shirt is then ironed and folded with the correct internal packaging and clips to help it make the journey to Dallas. · Finally the shirts are packed – all first shirts in the first few boxes, all multi-shirt orders are packed together in a counter clockwise sequencing. This allows our Dallas warehouse team to quickly unpack and ship each shirt. A few additional comments. 1) No patterns are retained or re-used. This is a source of too much error – and we will never do this. Each and every single shirt gets its own pattern. 2) No pieces are pre-cut. There are many custom shirt companies that work with this approach – we will never. 3) We do not sew our shirts on a ready wear line. In keeping with Toyota Production discipline, each and every station in our sewing operation is set up for a unique operation. 4) We use a wide variety of fabrics for our shirts – and these behave differently (a twill, an oxford, a linen, etc…). We account for these differences in the pattern. So yes two shirts made for the same exact customer may be different before they are washed (very slightly). This different should go away as the fabric naturally ages over two to three washes. 5) No two shirts are going to the same. High end Italian custom shirt companies told me with great price last year in Florence that this is part of the artistry of custom clothing. US customers see things differently. But two shirts will be slightly different due to different fabric and manufacturing tolerances. As in so many aspects of our lives, I think a little diversity is okay (as long as it is within our tolerances). 6) Whenever there is a manufacturing defect, we report that defect to Malaysia. We have a corrective action system in place – and each and every manufacturing error is thoroughly investigated. 7) We are by far the largest custom shirt company in the world – this year, we will make between 160,000 to 180,000 custom shirts – and that number will double in 2014. So this is the process, we continue to make investments in technology to stream-line this process but the basic steps will remain the same. In the very near future, we will be eliminating paper patterns (saving considerable paper) and using only CNC (computer numerically controlled) cutters to further improve cutting accuracy. We are also looking at new tools to speed thread change-overs and improve the process of collar embroidery. I am very proud of the incredible strides our team has made in our custom shirts – and I hope you also can appreciate the care and handwork that goes into each and every shirt we provide.
Posted on: Thu, 08 Aug 2013 21:03:20 +0000
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