Landfall ! Just not the land we had planned. (Sailors make plans. The Sea dictates terms. God laughs.) Instead of St. Thomas, on November 23 we anchored off Mayaguana Island in the southernmost Bahamas. Departing Miami Beach (Lon 080W) on November 17, wind, sea and current for the first three days were perfect for crossing the Gulf Stream, transiting the Providence Channel and making our easting. Fast, fun sailing got us quickly east to Lon 072W. Conditions then turned adverse – a cold front driving Force 6 easterlies with F7 gusts and seas to match. We jogged in place for a day, north and south, until our weather routers advised that any further easting would be “difficult to impossible” for the foreseeable future and that we should head south. So, Plan B, Providenciales, Turks & Caicos. Southbound, double-reefed, trouble found us. The lazy genoa sheet ran out of its blocks and fouled on the running gear below. (Note to captain. Two words. “Stopper knots”.) Mechanical propulsion was lost for any coastal approaches or reef maneuvering. A couple of other minor yet frustrating breakdowns, a damp cabin and foul-smelling crew made for a tough couple of days. Overall though, the yacht and her systems performed well under challenging circumstances, proving that she is stronger than we are and binding the covenant that we care for her so that she may care for us. On approach to Provo, our onshore contact advised that conditions were too rough to dispatch a pilot boat out to tow/push us into a marina. So, Plan C, the west (leeward) shore of Mayaguana. There, we found refuge at Betsy Bay, dropping the hook (under sail) 200 yards off a long deserted beach on the afternoon of the seventh day. Four nights at Betsy to rest, clean up, dry out and fix the busted stuff including un-fouling the cutlass bearing and prop shaft (thanks to technical advice via satcomm from our stateside shore support and my lady mate in pink snorkel mask). After Betsy Bay, we hunkered down (Plan D) behind Abraham Bay’s fringing reef and (E) inner bight on the south side of Mayaguana, as yet another cold front drove F6-7 winds and seas between there and Provo 65nm to windward. The local folks at Abraham Bay settlement were gracious and friendly. ‘Scully’ is the township’s self-appointed international ambassador, experienced at sea in his own right and understanding the needs and concerns of voyagers in his little corner of the world. The weather finally cleared and we proceeded to Provo and are now tied up at a marina enjoying what TCI has to offer. At the end of the day we’re well provisioned, at a welcoming port-of-call, aboard a fully functional yacht, blessed with good health and a loving relationship. Plans for the Virgin Islands cast to the winds for now (Plan F: Luperón, Dominican Republic), we’re having the time of our lives . . . with stopper knots tied in the bitter end of every working line, every spare in the rope locker, our shoelaces and the dental floss. Lingerie and bikini strings not included.
Posted on: Tue, 09 Dec 2014 12:29:05 +0000
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