Lunch at La Petite Maison de Cucuron By Franz Scheurer Today we were given the ‘inside info’ by a trusted local palate (Jean-Loup Verdier, the gentleman who runs this B&B with his wife Aude) that of all the places in this area, La Petite Maison de Cucuron was the place to go to eat. Now this may sound cool to the average Australian, but despite our huge country and our nonchalance about driving large distances, Australians don’t travel for food. This restaurant was in the proverbial boondocks and it took a lot of driving on small roads, including a couple of mountain passes, to get to. Yet, it’s natural in France, and when in France, etc. etc. So we left after breakfast and drove there, just making it in time for our 1pm reservation. The restaurant is a curious mix of old and new, with old-fashioned wood wall panelling, ancient silver-ware and lovely starched table cloths and superb, modern glassware. You had a choice of a lunch menu or the seasonal menu (with truffles, of course) and we chose the latter. Our aperitif consisted of a glass of Château la Dordogne 2012 from Luberon, about as local as you can get. I chose this wine for it’s minerality and dryness and also because it was available by the glass. A complimentary starter of game consommé with a liver dumpling, gave us time to choose the wine for the lunch. I chose a Pinot Gris from Alsace, a 2010 Grand Cru, René Klein, Zinnkoepfle. Lunch started in earnest with a wonderful egg dish (the egg was raw but warm), with cream, onions and generous truffle slices and a semolina biscuit with cheese and more truffle. A tartare of fish with alfalfa sprouts and truffle was followed by a seared sliver of fish (Grogneur, sometimes called Grunt fish) with asparagus, truffles and a butter emulsion. A little ‘pie’ of ris de veau (veal sweetbreads) and truffle, sitting in an incredibly rich, sticky stock with a brunoise of carrots and celeriac was next. A whole, small Banon goat’s cheese with a perfectly dressed mâche salad followed and a pineapple dessert with plum pannacotta and a couple of ‘Paris breasts’, choux pastry, filled with praline. A perfect noisette (espresso with a little milk and foam) finished a perfect lunch. This chef, Eric Sapet, knows how to cook. Presentation is superb and he follows through with aromas and flavours and incredible textures. He certainly understands how to use the precious truffle. Service was affable, friendly and bilingual, capable of explaining the rare word we didn’t understand in French. Score: 8/10 Would I go again? In a flash Noise: 70 db Best dish: Ris de veau The ‘je ne sais quoi’: the other diners, e.g. The atmosphere Something different: the way they decant the wine… For more information and you must make a reservation: La Petite Maison de Cucuron Place de L’Etang 84160 Cucuron, France Tel.: +33 4 90 68 21 99 Here is a copy of the actual menu we had: Sous 3 cm d’une polenta légèrissime, un œuf coulant et une compotée d’oignons doux des Cévennes à la râpée de truffe Tuber Mélanosporum Croque à la truffe Un gros maigre en tartare aux aromates Mousseline de chou-fleur , Condiment citron – Karen had this dish, insterad of the sweet breads Grogneur de méditerranée contisé de truffe Bouillon léger avec les premières asperges de l’année Tourte dorée et feuilletée de ris de veau à la truffe et au foie gras Les légumes de braisage des ris « ivres » de sucs et de Madère Sauce Périgueux Le fromage sélectionné et affiné Bouquet de mâche « fatigué » à l’huile d’olive du Domaine de la Colombe d’Or Gourmandise d’ananas en écailles croustillantes Mignardises Menu : 68 euros - Note the price! this is incredibly good value for money, too.
Posted on: Sat, 25 Jan 2014 07:58:19 +0000
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