Most people dont understand what makes one sub better than another... A lot of factors, so we will use the same style of motor and how it can be made different, and how it can be made better!, Coils are very well, THE SINGLE Most contributing factor... they determine the Amount of Power that can be put to a coil, and if it will dissipate that heat, or hold on to it. if it will unravel, or explode. COIL INFORMATION YOU SHOULD KNOW 1.) its actual Thickness of gauge wire, 2.) Rotations of wire round the coil to create the Outer dimeter 3.) Material of the Wire, (Copper compared to Aluminum) 4.) Winding Height, how tall is the Winding 5.) Material the former is made out of 6.) The weight of the coil THEN THERE IS SUSPENSION 1.) Stiffness of spiders is crucial, and unless experienced, you will not know how to properly break them in, and you will unravel your coil in minutes. 2.) Number of Spiders and actual amount of Material, which will also add weight and effect your Fs of the driver when done. 3.) Material your spider is made out of, determines if your speaker will be better for Soundquality on low power, or made to handle big power and used for either SPL or SPL/SQL i took some stock American bass HD motors, and they originally had a coil configuration in it that consisted of 4 layer round Copper coil, Inner Dimeter 3.000, inches Outer diameter 3.1925 inches Winding height of 1.9 inches. 3 double stacked r Extra Stiff spiders. so 6 essentially Now i purchased over 40 blown American Bass subs and was told there were over 600 of them available... with this configuration! A warranty means nothing, if you have use it, again and again, thats like a soundigital amp i bought with a lifetime warrenty, i sent it back 6 times, and used it for week at a time... so i learned the importance of a product that works, and doesnt just hve a warrenty. so i have built up these subs with coil that has 4 times thicker gauge wire, allowing for 4 times the amount of current to travel through it. Inner diameter 3.000 Outer Diameter 3.240 Winding Height 2.25 Aluminum Round Wire on top of it. With a 8 x 3 inch spider confinfigurtion of 3 stiff, on some up to to 4 stiff, 5 and some with 9.25 Spiders. all Hand assembled in my shop, and perfectly centered since that is the most important step in any sub other than your glue joint and out of 20 built so far, i have not encountered one failure! and i have put 10k onto 2 12s attempting to blow them, with no success, i have tested them and made sure they worked and sold them. I run 10k on 4 15s i put together for week, which means 10 minutes day, and then the show i competed at, Subs are clearly sellable, and tested, doing 157.62dbs Louder than 98% of the people in colorados history! Now i sell my subs for more because they have better parts in them, and are handbuilt, not sent from china, and when you blow them replaced by a sub made in china. I hand build every sub, and take great pride... I have one set of subs tht were built 4 years ago and they set the all time Trunk ,record of 160.5,, 1 out of 4 blew and its been 4 years now. So my Point is, if you are local, and you have Heard people badmouthing my name, you should know by now are hating, my subs are run all over Colorado and the only ones that blow, are from people that blow them, they dont just blow themselves, IT TAKES A LOT to blow them! AND AND ANY SUB CAN BE BLOWN REASONS SUBS BLOW/ AND SYMPTOMS/Evidence tht proves it 1.) a poorly built and designed box will cause loading issues and tear off surrounds, 2.) playing under or below tuning your enclosure was designed for will create stress on the coil because the Box isnt designed to reproduce those frequencies efficiently, and inefficient anything creates HEAT, in this case it melts the glue holding your coils together, and your coil unravels with a smell of Burned Glue, (thats that smell) 3.) Clipping caused from low voltage, not enough batteries will melt damn near any glue on the coil, (its like one of the old fashion push in cigarette lighters in a car, you know, the ones you push in and it pops out with its coil Glowing red hot?) Add some decent power with tht clipping and you end up with coil after coil doing the same thing FAIL, and in some cases Explode. Current Flowing through any wire will Cause failure if its high enough! 4.) Tinsel wires burning up, that is caused from USE, Clipping, And To much power. coils can get super hot, Glowing Hot with clipping, and tinsel wire will also get Hot as hell, they are attached directly to the coil and the heat is transfered to the tinsel wires, Anything holding it can and will get melted through, its what Hot things do, they melt through material, and lets get real, Your sub, is made of ALL FLAMMABLE Materials. and every sub has its day 5.) COIL ROCK/RUBBING, if you are Playing LOWS Beyond a subs limit, there will be signs, rub marks at one end of the coil, This is called COIL ROCK, the suspension can no longer control the sub at full excursion causing a tilt on the coil and consistant rubbing at full excursion. You can also have coil rock from a Loading issue inside your box creating pressure on one side of the cone, creating an imbalance while the sub is playing. 6.) Ripping suspensions , This is caused from excessive power, Playing to Low with to much power, or just to much power period, Poor Box design nd playing out of tuning. Not enough Break in before playing full tilt, and Cloth spiders which are brittle 7.) Coil Rub, which is caused by a coil that got too hot and bubbled, now the sub makes a rubbing sound, and scratching. BUILDER ERRORS ARE AS FOLLOWED AND WARRANTIED 1.) Glue Joint failures, of any kind, dust caps, surround, spider landings, 2.) Coils unraveling WITHOUT SIGNS OR SMELLS of abuse 3.) Sub Stops working for no apparent reason, after autopsy I wont warrenty subs when there is a clear sign of damage to a coil.. the coil can be damaged from what i just explined. I wont warrenty if there is damage to cones or surrounds, Because i have put my subs through tests you wont! and they held up. If you want to be loud, and you are putting your subs through the ringer, be responsible enough to accept responsibility for your subs when you blow them, and quit looking for free handouts. a warranty is fine, but it only pertains to failure of prouduct, and assembly, not damage that Power, Box and User inflict. I WILL BUILD YOU THE BEST SUB I CAN, AND THEY ARE CUSTOM, THEY GENERALLY OUTPERFORM THE ORIGINAL VERSION! IT BLEW BEFORE I BUILT IT, IT CAN BLOW AFTERWARDS.
Posted on: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 22:30:21 +0000