My Celtic Connection Part VII A Northern Ireland Ramble June 2014 You know those other five trips I took to Ireland? Well, I never went to Northern Ireland so part of the plan in my epic stay here was to go with a tour to the untraveled roads of the North. So I did that. And I want to tell you about that! I knew I wanted to do this tour in the next month or so and one morning just googled and found Thin Places of Northern Ireland tour. Wow! this would combine two of my passions but it was leaving in two weeks! Yes, I can do this! So, tour director, Mindie Burgoyne, made it happen. I joined the tour group in Dublin and that is where we met John/driver/singer, a Cork man with a fine voice! Yep, he entertained us sometimes not only with his fine singing but with a few (quite a few) bus driver jokes also! And drove that ten passenger bus many miles on the little roads of Ireland with one hand on the wheel and one on the mike! Altadevin Woods is the first thin place we explored, site of a large stone structure shaped like a chair, and called St. Patricks Chair. Everyone sat in the chair, of course, and just before I sat down I noticed a heart image in the stone. Yes, I am in the right place! Below, on a very steep hillside, a tiny trail leads to a huge dolman. As I looked back into the dolman, a ray of sunlight penetrated solid stone somehow. And, an ivy with leaves shaped like hearts. Mystical, yes. We journey on to Boa Island and Caldragh Cemetary where we see the famous Janus man and Lusty man ancient stones, and fun with a couple of pendulums to observe the intense energy in this place. On to Donegal Town, our home for a couple of nights. An expert in ancient sacred places joined us in Sligo with his banjo case? After a morning of learning about 6000 year old megalithic monuments, ancient caves and seeing Cassiebaun in the distance, Martin tells us that these sites are more about life than death (and why that is). Now then we find out why Martin has a banjo case as he plays for everyone in the little cafe where we have lunch. Sligo wouldnt be seen without seeing Drumcliffe and Yeats gravesite at the foot of Benbulben according to his wishes. A round tower too. And Martin tells us that on the mountain we see in the distance, the icicles freeze horizontally in the winter because of the fierce wind! Then to Tobernalt Holy Well where it was said that the waters could cure madness but, where in fact, mass was held in secret during the days when religion and music were forbidden. There are 60 stone circles or family burial places in and around Sligo and we see only three in the time left this day. It is now May 18 and my birthday which I am excited to be spending with the King of Tory Island - Patsai Dan MacRuaidhri, aka Patsy Dan Rogers! Yes, the King met us at the ferry and took us on a tour of his island, the lighthouse and the tiny booley house that the last king (Derek Hill) built on a hill overlooking the cliffs and Tory Sound. He was an artist and came to this place alone for the month of August to paint. At the end of a wonderful day, we returned by ferry and traveled to Derry - as John sings to a weary ten. Well, I am not fond of cities but Derrys story told to us by Michael, from the Bogside, as we walked with him around The Walled City was interesting. This wall was built in the day to keep the English in and the Bogsiders out! On now to Inishowen Strand, and to my delight, a wild and beautiful part of Ireland. In the exact center spot of a huge round fort (Grianan of Aileach), John/driver/singer sang The Town I Loved So Well and, as advertised, could be heard equally well in all parts of the fort. He is probably going to be famous after the recordings of his singing on this tour. So many ancients sites, so little time - but we tried. The Fahan Cross, the Marigold Cross at Carndonagh and Malins Wee House. But to the place I loved most of all - Malin Head. It is the farthest tip of Ireland and one of incredible beauty. We walked on the beach, each of us finding incredible stones, it is said, should not be here! A little extra time was spent here on departure because Mindie lost her smart phone and all the tour info was on it so everyone out of the bus to look - until it was found. At Dunluce Castle ruins, Hazel, a lovely Irish woman, took us into the castle ruins with a short history of the place and left us then to explore. It was the home of the McDonnells (Scottish Clan MacDonald) in 1550s after they ousted the MacQuillans, who built the castle in 1500. The castle was built on a sea cliff and it is said the kitchen collapsed into the sea and all the cooks were killed. The only access to the castle from the sea was from a sea cave and I cant believe it myself but I went down into this dungeon-like cave to explore. Other points of the day were the Giants Causeway, Whitepark Bay where I was able to hear the sands sing after Mindie pointed me to a space in the dunes that was conducive to the singing. The Glens of Antrim were as beautiful as advertised, we so enjoyed The Dark Hedges as we made our way into Belfast. This has been a very energetic few days so some took this next day off. I considered it because it began with a tour of Belfast, but I shall not return this way again so I must do all that I can do. John/driver/singer was the tour guide so we never got out of the bus, he being a Cork man who seems to feel unsafe in Belfast. We drive by the Titanic museum, site of its building and the Samson and Delilah cranes that lifted it into the bay. Later, we find The Giants Circle is a huge ring fort with a dolman in the very middle. The energy here is very strong as we see people with dogs who are delirious with joy here. Now, Carrickfergus, you must know it from Phil Coulters I Wish I Were in Carrickfergus. Yep, John/driver/singer sang it for us and we explored the ruins, even the Kings loo! We really sense strength and menace as history tells us it has survived attacks by Scots, Irish, English and French and served as an air raid shelter for the people of Carrickfergus during WWII. The castle walls are all built with places for guns and crossbows and cannons, a dungeon for prisoners, a murder hole - everything a castle needs., I guess. Now Maura joins our tour for the day along with her bodhran (drum) which she played as she explained the history and significance of the Beaghmore Stone Circle and the Ardboe Church high cross where we discover a portal in the graveyard there. We have lunch at a great little place called The Tilly Lamp - a place that really piqued my interest for some reason. A Tilly Lamp is pretty much like a lantern we used on the farm during storms or at night to check on sick animals. We return Maura to her car somewhere in the wilderness? And continue on to our last stop at Navan Fort and the story of The Twins of Macha. You might be wondering if we ever shop for souvenirs? Thankfully not, except for here and it is a nice shop where even I buy a souvenir of my Northern Ireland adventure. Now we are on the last day of the mystical tour of thin places and we leave the glassed in Europa Hotel in Belfast - its claim to fame is that it is the most bombed hotel in Northern Ireland during the troubles. John/driver/singer sings a very sad song today, Only Our Rivers Run Free as we pass fields of yellow rapeseed and we see fields of potatoes with their blankets to keep in the warmth. Two more places to visit are St. Brigids Holy Well And the Proleek Dolman, both significant experiences, partly because, as in all the places we visited, no other tourists, pretty much just us ten. We stop in Kells for lunch at where else the Kelltic Inn where we learn how to pronounce Mna (Gaelic for womens bathroom) - it is min ahhh. I actually passed on the last cairn at Loughcrew but added to my healthy stash of photos anyhow with pics of flowers and sheep. Then on to Dublin for our last supper and teary goodbyes. My spelled out words on this page - they are not enough. Ill just say that the impressions on my soul shall remain with me always. For every joy that passes, something beautiful remains. m.d.hughes Slan!
Posted on: Sun, 15 Jun 2014 07:57:39 +0000
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