My bullpup EAT, built for Uni games so its not designed to be the most powerful EAT around. I used parts from an EAT, a Raider and a Retal stock. It uses a US spec EAT spring, with a spring spacer and AR removed for maximum possible performance from a US spec spring. I would have loved to use an OMW spring in this thing, but sadly that spring is too strong and breaks the priming rod after a number of primes. Functions just like a regular EAT, regular priming and slam fire work perfectly, though a little rougher than a standard EAT. The plunger rod is cut down to pretty much the shortest it can be, allowing it to be a little shorter and more compact. The barrel is longer than that of a regular EAT which is why I needed the extra bit of kick from the spring spacer and AR removal, and also the ranges I was getting before doing those mods was below what I desired. The AR removal also helps push out the Kooshes that I use, because with the AR in it had a few Koosh jamming problems, and now with it out it doesnt. Its still below what Id consider good for Uni games, but its near enough, and beats grey trigger Elites which is what most of our general use blasters are. I also added a lever clip release as it feels much better and is easier to use than the standard clip release mech. The main feature of this is that it can be partially disassembled to fit in my Uni backpack for easy transport. It isnt the best solution as the priming rod clearly sticks out, but I couldnt figure out any other effective method that would work within my constraints. The handle is a little too close to the body, so the side of the body does jab into your arm, but its kind of too late to fix that problem, and I dont have any spare large blue shells to sacrifice either. The main reason I sacrificed a Raider was that its the only suitably sized blue blaster that I was willing to sacrifice. A Retal or another EAT would probably work just as well, or possibly even better. The front does have large gaps even with the barrel attached, which I may fill with cardboard pieces if I can find a good Elite blue paint. Besides filling in the front gap and possibly completing the white Elite stripe, Im probably not going to paint it. If I could do it again with access to any parts I wanted, I would sacrifice 2 EATs to make a lot of the work I had to do much easier, and would also continue the white stripe that stops at the Raider parts without needing to paint. I would also weld the priming rod together rather than use my JB Weld and aluminium sheeting solution, and that would probably allow use of an OMW spring.
Posted on: Tue, 07 Oct 2014 05:22:23 +0000