Nauru: The worlds smallest republic By Kathy McLeish Updated Wed 23 Oct 2013, 3:29pm AEDT Ship loading equipment is seen on Naurus coastline Photo: The worlds smallest republic runs on Nauru time. (Kathy McLeish) Related Story: Refugee looks back on seeking asylum and detention in Nauru Map: Nauru Nauru was once known as Pleasant Island, and locals will tell you it still is. Sitting just one degree below the equator and 3,000 kilometres north-east of Cairns, the worlds smallest republic runs at the easy, good-natured pace of steamy tropical locations. A first impression of Nauru is usually from the air and, overwhelmingly, its one of extraordinary isolation. The flight from Australia consists of hours of ocean views, broken briefly by a glimpse of Solomon Islands before being rewarded with a view of the tiny island nation in a vast blue ocean. Depending on the season - there are only two to choose from, the wet or the dry - the whole island either appears green from the air or the centre appears dry and lunar, ringed by leafy lowlands. The island is surrounded by a shallow coral tidal shelf which extends about 40 metres before plunging dramatically 50 metres to the ocean floor. As you leave the plane, youre bathed by warm, fragrant tropical air. The airport terminal is on one side of the main road, the runway is on the other. Picture of Nauru showing the buildings used by the phosphate mining industry Photo: Fine powdered dust from the phosphate mining industry is suspended in the islands air. (Kathy McLeish) When a plane lands or departs large gates close off the road like railway crossings and allow the plane to pass through. Some motorists drive around, some wait at the gates. Thats known as Nauru time. The population of about 9,500 clings to the coast, along Naurus one main thoroughfare, which is effectively a 24-kilometre ring road. At the leisurely speed limit of 40 kilometres per hour it takes about half an hour to drive around the island, allowing plenty of time to take in the scenery. Nauruan homes are very basic and often seem partly built. Rubbish litters roads and yards, while decades-old infrastructure is broken and left to decay. A gorgeous sunrise view over the ocean includes old ship-loading equipment, slowly rusting into the sea. Phosphate mining has left the interior landscape savagely scarred. And theres a perpetual fine powdered dust in the air produced by the islands phosphate-mining industry. But Nauru has a charm that wins over many people. Parts of the island are strikingly beautiful. Coconut trees and palms fringe the coastline, and the lush forest is reclaiming the limestone pinnacles left by the phosphate mining. The people are delightful. Theyre easy-going and friendly. The country has a low crime rate and a feeling of safety similar to that found in country towns. Its highly valued by the locals who work with police to ensure the crime rate stays low. Happy, barefoot kids grow up in the heart of large extended families. Community is extremely important and helping each other is a strongly held ethos that extends to asylum seekers. A sign warning swimmers of strong currents is seen on Nauru Photo: The country has a low crime rate and a feeling of safety that is characteristic of country towns. (Kathy McLeish) Communication systems on the island are unsophisticated. There is a single provider which runs a mobile network and internet services. Wi-fi can be unreliable and most people dont have computers, so the majority of online access is through the single internet cafe on the island. There are no landlines and no phone book. If you want to know someones phone number, you have to ask around. Theres a fortnightly government newsletter, a state-owned television station and a state-owned radio station that broadcast programs from Australia and New Zealand. High levels of type 2 diabetes and kidney and heart disease are significant health challenges for the population of Nauru. Unemployment is a way of life. Employment rates have improved in the past decade but could still be about 40 per cent. At the turn of the millennium Naurus unemployment was the highest in the world at 90 per cent. Phosphate mining had declined and the country was in fiscal crisis, the estimated billions earned from phosphate mining squandered. The countrys financial credibility had been ruined by political instability, corruption, mismanagement and the collapse of Naurus only bank. The economy has improved. New techniques and technology have allowed a revival of the phosphate mining that could last for up to 30 years. An international tuna-fishing lease agreement is also bringing in some revenue. Tension over detention centre In 2001, Australia entered into an agreement with Nauru to build a detention centre on the island as part of its controversial Pacific Solution aimed at the offshore processing of asylum seekers. The first detainees were a group picked up from sea and taken onboard the MV Tampa. The centre was closed down by the newly elected Australian Labor Government in 2007. But in 2012, a toughened stance and a new policy aimed at deterring refugee boats and people smuggling led to the reopening of the centre. Accommodation blocks destroyed during riot at Nauru detention centre Photo: In July, 80 per cent of the detention centre was destroyed during riots. (Supplied: Department of Immigration and Citizenship) Locally, theres a genuine desire to help asylum seekers and an understanding that the refugees have come from a difficult situation and that detention is challenging. The deal with Australia also brings significant financial benefits to the country and provides jobs. Since reconstruction last year there have been a series of protests and riots at the camp known locally as Topside. On July 19, this year a riot and fire ended with 80 per cent of the centre destroyed and 118 asylum seekers charged. The most recent event was a turning point for the Nauruans, who felt threatened. Locals say the glow of the fire and the sound of exploding gas bottles could be heard and seen around the island. With limited communications the rumour mill ran hot with stories that asylum seekers had overrun the detention centre and were heading to the towns. A text message calling for all men willing and able to assist police to go to the detention centre fuelled the fears and the Nauruans turned out to the Topside gates in force. The rioters were arrested but the locals were furious that a sense of danger had been brought to the community and angry at the destruction of the facilities. A new agreement struck between president Baron Waqa and former prime minister Kevin Rudd in July this year has also created serious concerns among local residents. It would allow some successful asylum seekers to be settled on the island. Under the laws of the land non-Nauruans can never achieve permanent residency and can never own land. The Pleasant Island can never really be home. Topics: geography, refugees, community-and-society, immigration, nauru, australia, pacific First posted Wed 23 Oct 2013, 8:41am AEDT Search ABC News News in your language Bahasa Indonesia Khmer Tieng Viet Chinese Francais Tok Pisin Newsline Business Today #TalkAboutIt Connect with us ABC News on Twitter @an_news ABC News on Twitter @ranews ABC News on Facebook Australia Network ABC News on Facebook Radio Australia ABC News on Facebook Radio Australia - Pacific ABC News on YouTube Australia Network News A landslide near Tari PNG coverage wins award
Posted on: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 13:23:11 +0000