Regimen for Roses by Vice Admiral Edward H Martin USN Ret. In each issue of GARDENTALK we highlight gardening and landscaping tips from professionals in the business. This time we are taking a slightly different tack in highlighting rose care tips from one of our retail customers. Vice Admiral Edward H. Martin USN Ret. grows some of the most spectacular roses I have ever seen! What makes his roses so incredible is that they are grown in an environment that is to say less than conducive to good performance! Admiral Martin grows his roses at his home in Coronado where the combination of the humidity, coastal fog, and salt air would usually discourage most people from trying! Admiral Martin has graciously taken the time to write down his regimen for roses that I can attest has amazing results in less than perfect growing conditions. Ken Andersen The following regimen for roses has proved to be very successful in the San Diego area, particularly in the coastal region where cool, moist air is prevalent and the soil tends to be loamy; and like most of the San Diego area, quite alkaline. Choosing varieties that are less susceptible to mildew, rust and black spot is the first criterion for success. In this regard, the advice of experienced nurserymen, knowledgeable of the local area is imperative. Roses like airflow between them and ample sun. Accordingly, choose their location and allow for adequate space between individual plants. Ø About January 1st, cease all watering of established roses. Ø During the second week in January, properly cut-back al, except climbing roses, to about fourteen to sixteen inches above the root ball. For climbing roses, cut back much less severely. Ensure all are defoliated. Ø Immediately after roses are cut back, thoroughly clean up all debris and dead leaves, etc. from around them. (This and the next step is critical to success.) Ø Thoroughly spray all roses and the surrounding ground with a fifty-fifty mixture of lime-sulfur and agriculture oil, at the rate of eight oz. per gallon of water. This will kill fungi on the plants and in the soil. If the previous growing season was unusually severe with respect to mildew, rust and black spot, a second similar spraying, several days later is beneficial. Ø About the first off February, work-in about three inches compost or other organic material such as peat moss into the soil around the roses. Then, for mature roses, work well into the soil, out to the drip line around each rose, two cups of Ada Perry’s Magic Formula. For newly planted, or during bare-root planting, use one cup of Ada Perry’s Magic Formula. Water well thereafter. Ø Begin watering schedule to ensure they are deep-watered regularly commensurate with the weather but not allowed to be swamped. Watch them carefully during hot, low-humidity, Santa Ana conditions. Ø In mid February, fertilize, using a balanced time-release fertilizer such as Osmocote. Use according to label instructions. Ø When foliage becomes established, begin a regimen of spraying for insects and fungi. Immunox or Bayer Advanced Garden Disease Control for Roses, Flowers and Shrubs have proved highly effective. It is far better to prevent the diseases and insects from becoming established rather than attempting to eradicate after infestation. A regular ten-day spraying schedule is recommended. Ø Remove dead flowers, rose hips, dead foliage and debris from the roses and surrounding ground on a regular basis. (This is a sine qua non for inhibiting fungi.) Ø In mid to late May, repeat the application of Ada Perry’s Magic Formula and fertilize again as in February. Ø In late August, repeat the above step. Enjoy Your Roses Edward H. Martin
Posted on: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 21:32:50 +0000