Saturday 16th November 2013 - Acclimatisation day and Dingboche Ri. Andys alarm beat mine to the quick, and we compared notes on quality of sleep - great, Andy got a much needed excellent night. Mine was broken and fitful, but better than nothing. We had a room with a good view: Excitedly I said to Andy lets have a look at that view. We both belly laughed as I swept the curtains aside to be greeted by a wall of sheet ice covering the window. It was impenetrable so the view had to be imagined. Acclimatisation day, so didnt have to pack the yak-pak, quickly to breakfast. We had a fierce climb ahead today to 4,800m and apparently no horizontal to speak of, so in went every scrap of food on the table, including a large helping of honey on my now standard muesli with hot milk. It was cold from the outset, so even though the steep climb started only yards from the hostel my outer shell was required, and then worked for its keep as soon the wind got stuck in. Another absolutely beautiful day, and even the tall peaks all around werent wearing their usual whispey scarves. The sun was super radiant and factor 30 was applied liberally again and again. I always wore my Indians Jones hat and buff, and even with sun screen backing it up I was still getting burnt. Lesson: a hat and factor 30 isnt enough protaction at this altitude. I had noted in the morning that I had a blood blister on my lip, which I hadnt noticed before due to the numbingly cold air - not sure if it was caused by cold or sun and a combo...doesnt hurt. I had been so careful with Neutrogena factor 30 lip-salve. Anyway, the promise of an intense climb was under-promised and over-delivered. I would have prefered to keep going, but the guides are experts in reading the pace, so stuck to their plan. The altitude made its self know and every step was giving lungs and heart a work-out. For a while the outer shell came off, then had to go back on due to the subzero wind side-swiping us. The group fractured as one half waited and the nutters continued upwards for some extra punishment. You can probably guess I was among the nutters. I would have liked to go further, but since the others were waiting and the wind was so cold we descended. There was a slightly mad mini race up the hill, but no winner was declared. It took me minutes to recover, rather than the 10s of seconds it would normally take....respect for altitude was deepening. Looking around at what can only be described as majestic beauty emanating like a persona from the surrounding mountain range is awe inspiring. Its impossible to take it all in. I try to get a panoramic shot, but it almost seems pointless as no image if this can convey what you see and feel here. I attempt to etch it into my mind and soul. We eventually got back about 2pm after a thigh destroying trek back. We were all revenous, even our poorly and sick. Cheese omelette and chips had been passed as safe here by the guide so that was demolished with lashings of spicey tamarind sauce in record time. Shower was miraculously working, felt good to get into that hot blanket of luscious water. The air temperature is so low that as soon as you shut off the flow it is an SAS operation to get back into clothes in a time counted in milliseconds. Next we were treated to a lecture about AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness - AKA altitude sickness) by a charity mountain clinic. I have to say it was absolutely fascinating - there are many different illnesses one can get, and the solutions are many and varied. One thing we did learn is that Nepal is the Diarrhoea Capital of the World, and many western antibiotics dont work here...lovely! Afterwards, we congregated around the now traditional wood burner. Its a good job we all get on so well....either be with friends or freeze your coconuts off! Relaxing and chatting seemes to fill the time so quickly. We has dinner late at 7pm and our guide, Danke, took us through the plan for the next few days. We have a 700m rise tomorrow, which will take about 6-7 hours. One thing I noted was that it was going to get much colder....shouldnt bother me as my whole body will be numb by then! Early start tomorrow, ans wrap up warm...its going to be a cold start. Getting a bit fed up with the concept of cold now! Andys last words are I hope the next place has duvet covers.
Posted on: Mon, 18 Nov 2013 06:07:49 +0000
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