Sketch One: The Antarctic Journey. We our in the Scotia Sea, heading toward the northern coast of South Georgia. The outside temperature has dropped to about 26 degrees F., and the winds and sea are rough. The ear patch is working wonderfully. We are near the Antarctic Conversion and will feel the changes in temperature even more than we do now. This is essentially the route Shackleton’s Endurance took in 1914 (he left from Buenos Aries but skipped the Falklands because of WWI sea battles in the region) to reach the Whaling station on South Georgia (which we will see). From here the Endurance departed for its fateful voyage toward Antarctica. I can only glimpse the harshness under which the crew made even this “easier” portion of their voyage. We’re keeping a steady pace of about 14 knots. Albatross still follow the ship. They are hard to miss – the ten-foot wingspan on some ensures it. It’s our second full day without sitting land. We should be in late tonight or tomorrow morning. The captain is very friendly and I’ve spent plenty of time on the Bridge with charts and electronic equipment that he and others explain. He is especially well informed about the Shackleton journey. Buenos Aires – I have been there before – took on a special meaning for our local guides: it’s the home of Pope Francis. I was able to walk into the Cathedral he called his home parish. It’s located on a plaza that also included the Executive Offices (think the balcony from which Eva Peron greeted the public and brought them to a frenzy). The Church and State are quite proximate to each other geographically. The Falkland Island – We stopped at one of the outer Islands, Zodiac–ed to the shore and walked inland to see and walk among a colony of penguins and albatross. Lots of photos taken. Then to Stanley. Some of us took a 4-mile trek into the mountains surrounding the town in order to learn about the War (troop movements and battles) between Great Britain and Argentina. Our guide had been under house arrest during the Argentine occupation in 82’, and later was in the military. I also did a long walk with others to see the landscape, including the “homes” in the ground that penguins create for themselves, and to see species of birds that are unique to this setting. The group on board includes many experts on wildlife, and plants, and geology. We get two or three briefings a day, and many of the passengers are here for precisely that reason. Under South Georgia rules, we are obligated to keep all the external ship lights off and shades drawn from dusk to dawn – to protect the birds – and to have all our external clothing deloused in order to ensure that no foreign species enters the island.
Posted on: Sat, 15 Nov 2014 12:58:10 +0000
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