So Im using my FB as a mini Japan blog. If you dont care for this sort of thing, you can skip the post and just watch the video, which is a summary of the things I did yesterday, including driving around Shikoku and visiting the Manjiro museum. Read on if you are inclined! Yesterday was a long but eventful day, as I did one of the main things I came to Japan for: visit Manjiros hometown and take photos for the book that Im writing for my 38th Voyage project. For those who might be new and are baffled by all the whaling ship spam and photos lately, the shortened explanation: Nakahama John Manjiro was a Japanese fisherkid who, in 1841, was wrecked in a typhoon. A whaling ship from New Bedford brought him back to Massachusetts, as Japan was closed at the time and he couldnt go home. Manjiro grew up in Mass and became an American whaleman, gold rusher, and explorer, until he returned to Japan when he was 24. As far as I know, he is the first Asian person to actually live in the United States. There were a few Asians who came to the US as transients before him but Manjiro was the first to be fostered by an American family, go to school in America, and join the American workforce as an actual member. As an Asian-American, all this is incredibly awesome to me and Manjiro is one of my heroes. I wrote a novel inspired by his story a few years ago, and this summer I was accepted to sail on the Charles W. Morgan, the last of the great American wooden whaleships. The Morgan is owned by Mystic Seaport, a maritime museum in Connecticut, and my interest in maritime history and Manjiros legacy led me to apply as one of the 38th Voyagers. I think the description on the internet is that we are scholars, scientists, teachers, artists etc who are documenting this 2014 voyage for posterity, which all sounds very grand and intimidates me a little XD Anyway, I arrived in Kochi City on Saturday and rented a car yesterday to make the 3+ hour drive down to the very southern tip of the island, Tosashimizu and Ashizuri, to stalk Manjiro. This prefecture is known to most people as pretty much the middle of nowhere, but there are a surprising number of famous people from Kochi. Manjiro is among them, although hes usually eclipsed by his more well-known contemporary Sakamoto Ryoma. Its so rural here that public transportation doesnt run. Theres one bus a day to Ashizuri, and thats it, so I had to rent a car. I said in my last post that I think that Shikoku is the most beautiful place in Japan, and I took tons of photos to prove it. On my way to Tosashimizu, I saw some pretty amazing mountains, gorges, forest, and coastline, complete beaches and turquoise blue water. I always wonder what Manjiro thought of Massachusetts weather. Were not exactly warm and tropical, but he probably enjoyed it in the summer, because the summer in Kochi is like 100 degrees with 100% humidity and I was pretty gross by the time I got back. There were three places I had on my list to visit: the Manjiro museum in Tosashimizu, Manjiros childhood home, and Cape Ashizuri, where theres a bronze statue of him on the coast. The museum and his restored house are pretty new, and I believe have ties in part by the Whitfield-Manjiro Society in Fairhaven and the New Bedford Whaling Museum. Its weird to go half a world away and find New Bedford souvenirs in the gift shop. The museum is small, but comprehensive, although I think most of the original artifacts are not held there and most of the displays are replicas (including a copy of Manjiros translation of Bowditchs Practical Navigator). His house was even trickier to get to, down a bunch of one-lane roads around cliffsides (whoo fun) and then finally ending in a dead end road, where I parked illegally and proceeded to follow signs through the tiniest rural neighborhood. I heard TVs on but only saw one old man, who ignored me. Hes probably used to random tourists coming to see the house. I made my last stop at Ashizuri, did a little bit of hiking and photos, and then headed back to Kochi to drop off the car. On the way, I realized that most of the gas stations here are self-serve! Is this a new thing?? I havent driven in Japan a while, but the last time I did, it was all full serve. I dropped off the car, got complimented on my Japanese by the rental car guy, who remarked that most gaijin-san cant speak any Japanese. Thanks, I think? XD As much as I did yesterday, the jet lag seems to be getting worse, not better. I woke up at 2:30 this morning and lay in bed until 7, then got up for breakfast. Hopefully this is not a trend. I have train tickets to Sendai in 2 hours, which involves changing trains 3 times, but the good thing is that I am staying with the relatives tonight and tomorrow night. Free room and board is always a plus! More laterz. Dont have too much fun without me!
Posted on: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 00:15:05 +0000