Surfing is like nothing else. Its frozen hands & fumbling - TopicsExpress



          

Surfing is like nothing else. Its frozen hands & fumbling keys. Its being cleaned up by a closeout & coming up laughing. Surfing is rubber arms and a dry wetsuit. Its the first duck dive on a cold morning. Its hot food, car heaters & the smell of coffee. Surfing is paddling out somewhere youve never been. Its step-ups, broken boards and long swims. Its How is it? & Had a couple? Surfing is sitting in the lineup alone under a pale winter sun. Its talking story in the car park later. Its the promise of warm water five hours away. Surfing is knowing that its winter somewhere. Surfing is who we are... youtu.be/z_2zNnsYSes
Posted on: Mon, 05 May 2014 02:08:39 +0000

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