There is something unsettling about Matera (also spelled Materra).The from railroad station in the upper town where we were deposited is a station like most in this part of Italy, a tired rectangular building that witnesses the trudging of hundreds daily. Hailing a taxi we were quickly whisked into ancient streets similar to those in all the towns we have visited here, roads paved with stones rounded and pocked with centuries of use hemmed in by faceless houses. But, then, yes, then, we turned the corner...on history? On reality? Here before us were the sassi - cave dwellings that were inhabited for about 9,000 years. A moonscape stretched out before us. Caves, blank eyes of the mountains, starred out from the other side of the valley. Our boutique hotel room is right here overlooking the valley. As we check in I see the book Christ Stopped at Eboli and I know I must read it. Our room is an old cave home, the whole home, which has been converted into one heated and air conditioned hotel room with comfortable beds, and a modern bathroom. It is hard to believe the last inhabitants in these sassi were relocated in 1968, including those that lived in what is now a cave home museum (photos below). It is right around the corner from our hotel. The museum has, surprisingly, a quaint charm. As I stood in the door way, in my mind I could hear people saying how much they would love living there. How fun it could be! But, add into the visual experience, bed bugs, lice, and every other pest that preys on animals and dirt and an incredibly fowl odor. With no sanitation save a water basin and pitcher, cleanliness was not and easily achievable task. Add to that, this was also the stable. The donkey, horse, goat, chickens and any other animals that the residents were fortunate enough to own were tucked in with them. The photo of the round stone opening is to the water cistern below the floor from which water was drawn up in a bucket. This precious resource kept the premises cold and damp. In about 400 square feet or so, the fodder for the animals was also stored. The people that lived here were plagued with disease - malaria, cholera, typhoid, and more - that sapped their much needed energy. They were disproportionately taxed by corrupt officials in the upper city and it drained the peasants already inadequate finances leaving nothing for quinine and other medicine needed for their conditions. Yellow faced children would beg for quinine rejecting candy or other seemingly more desirable offerings hoping for a chance for relief. A sobering reflection as we walk back to our luxury sassi for the night.
Posted on: Mon, 01 Dec 2014 20:07:20 +0000
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