Thursday 31 October. An early start - a really early start - to get to the markets to buy T her mussels. Out of the apartment before 8 am for the 20 minute walk into town. The market was only just underway: many stalls were still stacking. Got our mussels - about a kilo, and decided to do the cicale again (we had them in Trevi as an entree). Struck a few language problems - request for 10 began to be satisfied with (we think) 10 kilos, then two hands held up were interpreted as just 5 individual cicale, then it was sorted; her partner seemed to know what the order was and proceeded to give her heaps. A few green things to accompany and we headed back to the apartment for breakfast & to prepare for the day on the ferry: the weather was perfect. After a quick breakfast, back down the hill to the waterfront. We had planned to be in time for the 10.00 am boat, as that gave us options to get off and spend some time in a couple of the towns. But we arrived in time to catch the 9.15 boat. Took a couple of photos of Italian warships as we motored out, for Marguerite Ryan and Jim, but surreptitiously, after our little adventure yesterday inside the naval base. Wont show on this post, mainly because theyre rubbish. First stop Porto Venere & offloaded a few passengers, then on to Riomaggiore, where we got off to spend about an hour in this small town. Very steep, and an hour was enough to get a good look around, plus a coffee of course. Impressions of the Cinque Terre towns is that they are quaint little gold mines in need of fresh paint and plaster. Not sure of their history...perhaps products of 1960s mass tourism? But the little churches within are certainly part of centuries-old settlement. On to the next boat leg and headed for Monterosso, where wed been by train two days earlier. Wandered through the town looking for a pizzeria, or any place that sold farinata, a local delicacy made from chick pea flour and cooked like a flat bread. Found one place with it listed on the menu, but crossed out and the shop was shut anyway! So, opted for the tricolor pizza and a carafe of white wine. Delicious. Visited (again) the old church/confraternity as recommended by Heather Harrland hadnt noticed the rather confronting statues/statuary on the walls during the first visit, as we were concentrating on an exhibition of photographs of the devastation in October 2011! This church was the home church of an organization which started in the 16th century, a confraternity that looked after the poor, needy, widows & orphans and prayed for the souls of those lost at sea (from whom the former mostly derived). It now prays for the souls of those who dont give a donation - we promptly did so. Check out the statuary (oratorio). Then walked around to a grey sand beach (fine pebbles actually) where T paddled her toes, and D dozed under the boardwalk. Caught the 14.30 boat back to Porto Venere - interesting in that according to the program it wasnt supposed to be running today. Spent about 90 minutes there - well return tomorrow, weather permitting, to do a walk in the hills behind the town, part of trail number CT 1. Wandered up to St Peters church, which has a magnificent location looking out to sea. And found a ristorante that has farinata on its menu - closed of course, but well check in tomorrow. There is a festival of The Orient here over 1-3 November, so we are expecting local crowds to be out and about. Tomorrow is also a holiday for All Saints. There have been plenty of signs for Halloween, but not in your face - a few pumpkins, some stores with Halloween accoutrements, that sort of thing. We passed a couple of kids in Porto Venere in costume, but they didnt trick or treat us: who knows, that just might be their usual dress. When we checked at Tourist Information about tomorrows services, the young man said that Halloween wasnt really big, but was about kids being monsters. He added that he sees a monster in the mirror every morning, so didnt need any more hassling him. On the way home, lots of kids, with chaperones hovering,seemed to be doing the trick and treat on shop owners: the elderly gent serving us in our local alimentari (delicatessen) gave them very short shift. End of the day and very weary - must be the salt air. A quiet drink at home - the Vermentino was dry and crisp and just right to quench the days thirst. Ula Gordon must try to track it down - youd love it. Then the mussels. Basically cooked in their own juice for a couple of minutes, with a splash of white wine and lots of garlic, ending with a dash of olive oil and some chopped parsley. Excellent.
Posted on: Thu, 31 Oct 2013 19:14:37 +0000
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