Townsville Daily Bulletin Wednesday 10 July 1907 ON THE OUT-BACK TRACK. (By the North Queensland Heralds Travelling Representative.) RICHMOND - CLONCURRY EXTENSION NOTES BY THE WAY. The first official passenger train left Richmond for Julia Creek (91 miles towards Cloncurry) at 6.30 a.m. on the 28th inst It was anything but a passenger train, consisting as it did of goods waggons with supplies for the railway work and a convertible luggage van carried the passengers. Between Hughenden and Richmond grass was very scarce indeed, and owing to some very light showers what grass there was had been turned black, a little rain being worse than none at all. From Richmond to Julia Creek the grass is in great abundance and Hocks of splendid clean-looking sheep scattered away from the line as the train approached, the whole way. In these regions one cannot truthfully describe the scenery as Interesting. Commencing the other side of Hughenden and running all the way to within 20 miles of Cloncurry, 250 miles or more of vast undulating plains must be travelled over, with nothing to relieve the mono tony of the scene but a solitary looking stunted tree or mimosa bush dotted at Intervals of a mile or so. The run to Julia Creek occupied two thirds of the day, as all kinds o£ rail way stores and materials had to be dropped at intervals along this line. Piles of building material could be seen at the various stations waiting the erection of houses and stations, while teamsters were much in evidence all the way, both for loading and with ore from the mines. On arrival at Julia Creek a busy scene meets the eye. Houses and a hotel are being built, a bore is being sunk, crowds of carriers are waiting tor and with loading. All round the plain camels in hundreds are grazing. While the swarthy Afghan drivers in their quaint Oriental garb lend eastern color to the scene. The camels are a source of great annoyance to the teamsters and coach-drivers. Horses seem to detest them, and when turned out to feed do not stop until they have placed a good distance between themselves and the camels on the windward side, and often when the teamsters go to look for their horses in the morning, they find them scattered miles apart. on the roads when the coaches meet or wish to pass a caravan of camels the driver blows a bugle and the Afghan leader must make detour off the road about 100 yards; even then the horses often prance about and give the driver some trouble to keep them in hand. Thirty in one string is about the usual caravan or team. Each camel wears a large wooden stud through one nostril, not unlike a collar stud, to this is tied a lead line and then fastened to the rope which acts as a kind of crupper on the beast in front, so there is no hanging back. The leading camel is led by an Afghan on foot, while the other attendant remains in the rear. The loading of a string of camels Is very interesting, each beast carrying anything up to ten hundredweight, while the bulky-looking saddle must. weigh another hundredweight. The load for each beast is, of course, divided In two parts which lie on the ground with sufficient room between for the camel to walk, the driver mutters something which sounds like Hish-Hish-Sha, the animal immediately dropping on its haunches, all quivering and trembling; not with fear, but as if it is a strain to do so; then flopping down on its chest or brisket with its legs twisted like a trussed fowl. In this position it rests on very large hard corns; on the brisket the corn is about 6 inches in diameter and about one and a hair Inch thick; on the fore legs there an big corns, on the point of the joint lust below the shoulders and also on the knees, while on the hind legs there are corns on the front of the highs and on the hocks and front of the fetlocks. Three men are required to place the load; one holds hall the load on one side while the other two fix the other half on the saddle: all the time the camel is plaintively remonstrating in a most peculiar manner, opening its capacious horrid-looking mouth and throwing out a red-looking bladder from which it emits a low rumbling sound like distant thunder; it is air, and seems to be the receptacle for a reserve water supply. When the in flatted bladder collapses the camel throws its head up. mouth open, and the strange thing drops back to its place. Before the load is properly adjusted the beasts is anxious to rise. This It does rear part first, without any bidding. Anything that a carrier can carry on his waggon the Afghan will carry on his camel, and do a journey much quicker, indifferent to drought, water, or grass. I have seen two bales of wool on one beast; on others, galvanized roof iron, cases of kerosene, bags of flour, bundles of plain and barb wire — even two water tanks with goods inside, making a very awkward bulky burden. It Is no wonder that these wretched looking beasts with very sore backs and shoulders; owing to their peculiar gait, the load move in a continual sliding motion backwards and forwards. The age they attain is remarkable considering the treatment they receive and the tremendous loads they carry, on an average of 25 miles daily for long journeys. They live any period from 40 to 80 years, so the owner informs me . On a sand road the track they make with their broad, flat , cushion-like feet is very peculiar. It is about 2ft. wide; they keep behind one another and the dust is evenly flattened down, giving the impression that the broad flat shovel had been trailed along the ground. From the siding at Julia Creek the traveller must carry his luggage over to the coach road. ,a distance of one mile. Perhaps by the time this appears in print Messrs. Cobb and Co. ; will have ceased running their coaches any further than this point. The Train that left Richmond on Tuesday arrived a 4 pm., while the coach which left Richmond half an hour earlier that the train did not reach the Julia Creek Hotel until 2pm., the following day, the train passengers having the advantage of saving 10 hours extra travelling a and the sum of 24s 6d. The coach fare to Cloncurry from Richmond is 3 pound 10s. ; from Julia Cree it is 35s. while the train fare from Richmond to Julia Creek (second class) is 10s 6d. The coach journey all the way from Richmond occupies three days, two nights being spent on the road. The distance is over 200miles. The expense of food and accommodation amounts to 10s per day (2s 6d for a meal and 2s 6d for a bed). There is a story told of a traveller on this road who enquired for pickles from the wife of the worthy innkeeper. The meal was so dry that he required a relish. She simply shook her head, and with an injured air retired to the kitchen the daring traveller overhearing her remarks that a bloke inside wants pickles, he must think it s Christmas time. However, taking all things into consideration, the accommodation is fair. Once the railway is completed the wayside hotels will be price it would not pay these caterers to await the pleasure of the travelling public in such dreary, lonely surroundings. Although the train runs out towards Cloncurry for 91 miles, the line is not really complete; most of the culverts and bridges are not yet finished yet and the sensation of running down and up creeks, gullies and billabongs favours of moderate switchback. From Julia Creek the train can be seen coming an hour or so before it arrives., the smoke can be seen 30 miles away , and the train itself 20 miles distant, enabling hotelkeepers to prepare a hot meal for the hungry travellers, whether the train is up to the time or late. Strange sights and conditions of human existence may be seen in this desolate region, where all the old prejudices and refinements seem to be lost or ignored. Many Carriers , on account of the long distances and long periods spent between one point and another take their wives with them on the their long trips and the life the women and children put up with is very much on par with that of the gipsy nomad. Sometimes a covered in cart, not unlike a Cape cart, follows the wagon. This contains the wife and all the camp equipment, including t inevitable sewing machine, and even a few fowls and goats follow their home quite naturally . One Carriers wife accompanies him on his tri slung under the wagon on a spring mattress which swings and bumps her about very much . I am informed that, in this case the hubby does not require her company and will not provide better means of transit for her. But, being of a tenacious disposition. she will not be left behind; so between the stages from week to week, year in year out this faithful spouse may be seen in the same position, slung under the tailboard. From Julia Creek the next stage is the Gilliat, 18 miles distant, where the traveller finds a fair meal and accommodation for the night. From this place a start is made at 4am next morning to ensure reaching Cloncurry in time for 6 oclock dinner. This Hotel is the last link of - let us say civilization and sixpenny drinks- then commences the region of dust, flies, long waterless stages, indifferent half-crown fees, 1s drinks, or Barcoo Shouts (three drinks for 2s 6d. but the exact amount must be tendered); where mutton is never is never seen in the butchers shop, although sheep graze in thousands only a mile or so away; 1s for a cup of tea, 1s for a lonely pie, like old German Fritz, retails with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes for the humble threepenny bit at McKimmin and Richardsons Corner in Townsville. To the next hotel , at Fishers Creek, the stage is a long one, passengers being in the coach from 4am till 2pm with breaking ones fast. Lunch consumed and a change of horses effected, the remaining 18 miles to Cloncurry is commenced. From this point the whole appearance of the country changes immediately; the timber commences, and the country is all broken and stony; every hill, rocky bluff, and spur is distinctly of volcanic origin, ever the very metal on the road shows copper; the mountains on each side resemble giant upheavals of rocks thrown up in great disorder, suggesting even to the uninitiated the vast possibilities of the district as a rich mineral-bearing area. The town of Cloncurry , from a sanitary point of view, is excellently situated on a large flat of red gravel and sand. Building is going on briskly; many new shops and some very nice houses have been erected recently .The water question her is a most difficult and expensive one, wells being from 60 feet deep and costing 2 pound 17s 6d. per foot to sink, Mr. Bashford , the assistant railway engineer, is now here but is unable to commence construction operations from this end for the want of Labour. He has wired to Brisbane for men to be sent immediately . There is work here for the next six months at the very least for 200 men. All this must necessarily give business an extra spurt. Mr. Bashford informs me that his chief is desirous of getting the line open by Christmas time , although it will take fully 12 months for the whole extension to be ballasted and ready for steady traffic. From Richmond to Cloncurry the line will be 174 miles long and as 91 miles have been completed practically , there is now 83 miles yet to do. From here the hardest work will commence as there are 18 miles or so of rough stony country through which cuttings must be made. Many of the storekeepers have been waiting 20 years , confident in the future of Cloncurry. and now that their expectations have come to pass are taking things very quietly and making every preparation for a rush , of business activity which will out-do any other mining town in Australia, either past or present. As things are at present, money is very plentiful, and no man willing to work need be out of employment a single day The five hotels are all full up, and men are actually sleeping on the verandahs; this crowding Is very unpleasant, giving the hotel servants much work, and thus causing everyone to suffer considerable neglect, and the food being very carelessly prepared and served.
Posted on: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 08:57:16 +0000
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