Whisky tourism all over the world is a new and booming industry with no signs of slowing down. The Feis Ile (Islay Festival) going on right now is strong proof of that. I doubt Alfred Barnard realized the pioneering footsteps he was treading but he could certainly count himself as ‘Tourist No. 1’ if he did. Visiting, observing, appreciating and sampling each distillery is what his amazing journey was all about and that spirit of interest and exploration carries on today. When Barnard visited Islay, he was traveling from a 2-week stay in Campbeltown via Tarbert as he made his way to Port Ellen and the White Hart Inn. The assumed date was July 18, 1885 and he was a good month into the first leg of his journey. The order of Distillery visits as I make out is Ardbeg, Lagavulin, Laphroaig, Port Ellen, Bowmore, Lochindaal, Bruichladdich, Caol Ila, Bunnahabhain and then across the narrow waters to Jura. However, we’ll follow along with Feis Ile’s ‘Open Day’ schedule. Today’s page entry will summarize his visits to Lagavulin, Bruichladdich and Port Ellen. Arriving on July 19 from a morning at Ardbeg, he and his party pass the ruins of Dun-naomhaig Castle, a former refuge of Robert the Bruce and recounts the tale of one ‘MacPhail in the Rhinns. As he arrives, he writes of Lagavulin’s long illicit history tracing back to 1742 and a group of illicit stills producing ‘moonlight’ or whisky with no paid duty attached. The current owners at the time (JL Mackie & Co.) acquired the Distillery in 1835 and built it into the Distillery Barnard witnessed on his visit. His tour and reporting of the operations follows his typical form starting at the Maltings and guiding us through the Kiln, Mash Tuns, Distilling house and past the two pot stills to the Receivers, Chargers and Spirit Safe. Guided by the Distillery Manager, he’s shown the minimal warehousing as most stock is transferred to age in Glasgow. Most of Lagavulin’s product is used in blends but some is sold as a ‘single Whisky’ and is held in ‘high repute’. Bruichladdich was visited on July 22 as he returned from his survey of Lochindaal. An arranged visit, Barnard is complimentary of the new (1881) Distillery’s architecture and form. Little is spent in this chapter on any surroundings or lore as he quickly sets into his rounds. In his Point A to Point B style, he walks us through the familiar process. A few specifics to highlight are the mention of tiles (likely perforated ceramic) on the Kiln floor, a steam engine in the courtyard powering all the Distillery’s mechanizations and the source water for cooling and distilling is piped from large reservoirs in the hills above the Distillery. The new layout provided ample protection from fire which is a Distillery’s worst fear. After being filled into casks, the whisky was shipped to Glasgow every Tuesday from a nearby dock. Port Ellen is one of today’s legendary whiskies but now only exists as a large industrial maltings facility. Barnard visited the original Distillery on July 20 before moving on to the Beul-an-ath Hotel in Bridgend. A short entry in the book, he first takes a seaside stroll past the a nearby lighthouse and laments Islay’s distance from Glasgow and the lack of tourist facilities near what he describes as the ‘most delightful bathing sands’. Unable to meet the manager whom their letters of introduction were addressed, Barnard and his group were led through by the head distiller. His cursory tour reveals a wire cloth Kiln floors and three equally-sized malting floors. Past the Mill Room, Mash Tuns and Wash Chargers, we move past two large copper pot stills of 3500 gallons and 2100 gallons. Six warehouses were seen on site. He also points out that only local peat is used and that the water flows from two nearby lochs in the hills.
Posted on: Wed, 28 May 2014 04:05:17 +0000
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