Yesterday something incredible happened. I was body surfing in - TopicsExpress

Yesterday something incredible happened. I was body surfing in the late afternoon waves. It takes some practice, knowing which wave will ride you thrillingly to shore. Timing it just right, watching the currents so youre not pulled under. I had a few exhilarating moments and then it happened. I hit the perfect wave and was propelled onto the crown of the wave and was flying for a moment towards the shore and then the wave crested and gently deposited me on to the black sand. NOW I get why surfers travel all over the world searching for that perfect wave. I was so relaxed after that. Its healing and soothing and intoxicating. I cannot articulate really how it made me feel. Ill search for it again today, but Im not sure the ocean will be as benevolent this time.

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