tips for zones 9 and 10 - which is what we are here in pinellas county... Winter Gardening Tips From Zone 9 What coverings/protections work best for you in your winter garden? I cut up milk jugs to make mini-greenhouses. I made tunnels out of leftover wire fencing. I then covered the wire tunnel with 6-mil plastic sheeting that I had left over from a small business I once owned. The mild winters in the central valley of California allow for perfect conditions under the tunnel. It was like a miniature rain forest of lettuce, radish and carrots! I use a white screen I bought from greenhouse supply, and this lets me grow all season. Keeps the cold out enough to keep all salad greens growing without freezing. I don’t cover things. They need the rain and it just doesn’t seem to get cold enough here to matter. I use straw, but it’s for weed control as opposed to cold-protection. In Zone 9b, we don’t need coverings/protections. Our biggest winter problems, especially in a wet year, are snails and bottom rot on lettuce. Articles say to avoid overhead watering near harvest, but in a wet year, you can’t control that. Using raised beds helps, so that the water drains better. We don’t lose as many heads. If I was going to use protection, it would be to protect the lettuce crop from too much water in a very wet year. Covering crops tends to be more of a worry in SUMMER than winter for my garden, and I recommend shade cloth and choosing crops that can live in a Mediterranean climate. The only protection that I use at the current time is planting in my raised beds on the south side of the house. This warms the beds up in the sunny winter days and keeps the cold north wind from blowing over the tops of the newly planted seeds. Coverings are not needed except to protect crops from birds. I grow large tomatoes in fall and use frost blankets on very cold nights. For cole crops, I cover with Reemay fabric to prevent cabbage worms. I use light-weight row covers if needed. Here, we only need coverings/protection on below freezing nights. Last year we had only six below freezing nights and I used large pool towels to cover crops. I use a double-layer of cloth (one of them being quilted if possible). Plants seem to go unscathed better with this arrangement. But this is for warm-weather plants growing in my garden. I do not use covers for any of the cool-weather plants in your survey. If the weather is forecasted for below freezing temps, I use old sheets supported by bamboo stakes to save my plants from severe frost damage. Arizona’s winters are mild in the valley, so luckily freezing temperatures aren’t much of a problem here. But having a greenhouse really helps protect tropical and young plants. I use a small portable heater to keep my greenhouse warm when it gets below 40 at night. I use sheets and frost cover if we have frost over my peppers, eggplant, okra, etc. Our winters are usually mild. We only need coverings for our “summer” crops. I use a simple four-man camping tent with low tables inside to set the pots on. It works. I rarely have to protect cold-weather plants, but for non-hardy plants like peppers I do the following: For potted plants, I group them together and throw a tarp on them (maybe a blanket too if it will be that cold). If I have warm-weather crops still in the ground and it will be just an isolated freeze, I usually turn an empty pot onto them and add a tarp only if it will be really cold and if the plants are grouped together. I have a lean-to greenhouse in my garden. I would recommend anyone interested in serious year-round gardening invest in a greenhouse. Light Reemay (floating row cover) is all I ever use when it gets really cold, but most years I don’t even need that. In the past, we have used hoops with row cover plastic on them. However, now I just choose varieties that can take the winter conditions without any extra help, and let things grow as they may. I don’t use any cover unless it freezes. We had a week of freezing weather last winter and all I did was cover the plants with tarps at night. I only cover my orange tree. I put 5-gallon buckets over young plants if I need to. The only time I cover my garden plants is if the weather is expected to be below 25 degrees, and that happens so seldom here that I just use old sheets. I live in the humid South, so I don’t have to protect my winter garden at all. I don’t use any. I am planning on trying to cover my tomatoes and basil to extend their growing season, but the winter veggies do beautifully without any protection. What other winter growing techniques work best for you to get the biggest, healthiest harvests? I use local seed companies that trial for my area. Renee’s has trial grounds about 45 minutes from me, and they sell seeds targeted to do better than average in my area. Yields are amazing. Also, you can contact local Master Gardeners to see if they have a list of vegetable varieties that grow better in your area. Finally, never underestimate soil preparation. It’s summer and not winter that is the biggest crop-killer for me. Plant the varieties that more adaptable to the area. Here in the Mojave Desert, the winds and sun can be brutal, but the winter is a great time to grow a table full of greens. I always garden in raised beds and containers, because of the birds looking for any morsel of tiny green sprouting from the ground. I grow all of my greens in newspaper pots until they are at least three inches high. I use a greenhouse next to the house with minimal covering. I want the seeds to be accustomed to the temperature and climate when they are placed in the garden. So the seeds are grown near the east side of the house, protected from cold north winds, then planted into the raised beds located on the south side of the house for the winter months. Make sure to provide protection from drying winds Heavy Mulching still works best for me Plant tomatoes in pots so you can move them to the best sun exposure as sun drops further south. I have had tomatoes ripen year-round that way. Over watering can be an issue during the fall and winter, especially on cool days. I make sure to monitor my watering schedule to make sure the roots get enough oxygen and are not water-logged. Applying a generous application of organic compost seems to also help and get the root zone off to a healthy start and in turn keeps your plants more healthy. Timing is the number one tip to winter gardening success in my opinion. Getting your plants in the ground while the soil is still warm enough to promote root growth is crucial to your plants growing steadily through the cool months. Make sure you fertilize. It makes a great deal of difference in the produce. Constant watering, as the winters are very dry. Try an underground, timed watering system. Rototilling in compost and garden soil is key, as we are all sand here in Palm Springs. I will add aged manure this fall too. Our fall and winter are our best growing seasons because our summers are so harsh. Starting with purchased seedlings is often the best option, because it can still be 105 degrees here in mid-October, which makes it hard to keep seedlings alive. The best advice would be to choose vegetable varieties that are specifically bred for overwintering. In coastal Zone 9a, we are limited more by winter rain than by cold, so we can grow almost all year. I have had a lot of success with vegetable varieties from England (broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower especially), and grow almost exclusively heirloom varieties. My biggest tip would be to experiment! If you have your heart set on a particular winter crop, then try several succession plantings, try protecting some of your plants and leaving others to the elements. Try a few different varieties and see what works in your unique garden location and what doesn’t. Water often. Most individuals do not realize how dry the plants can get in the winter. I like to let whichever plants that can go to seed and sow themselves. For example, parsnips. They go to seed in August, and I plant the seeds into a row in August or September, to be harvested in December. I always leave a few in the row to make seed for the next year. The raised bed behind our retainer wall stays warm. Probably could grow most everything almost year-round. I plant tomatoes in February. Tomatoes hang on here until early January — so it’s almost year-round. What are your best tips for getting the timing right when planning and planting a winter garden? Paying attention to what the wild life is doing. I really watch the geese. Until they fly north again, there is a chance it will be too cold for some things to sprout. Protect your crops from small birds that arrived in late winter. They love greens. Because growing conditions over Tucson can vary so greatly, I refer back to my notebooks of experiments. I’ve been in the same place for almost 10 years, so it’s a helpful guide. I suggest taking lots of notes. We’re pretty spoiled here and can grow most things year-round, so I haven’t had to pay too much attention to when I get things in the ground. In south Florida we grow most things in the winter. I usually plant after the end of September. Broccoli, I start in July and harvest by December. We start peas in early November. I follow a guide printed by my local extension service specifically for the valley where I live. So far, it has proven to be a successful tool to planning the garden and planting at the right time. Some years are variable, as is life, and we must learn to go with the flow of nature and its tides. Keep a close eye on the weather. In my zone 9b, a cold spell that then moves back to warm will cause many things to bolt. I wait until there is a consistent downward change in daytime temperatures before planting. Some years, I can start in October, but most years I have to wait until November. Soil temperatures have to go down before some of the winter stuff will germinate! Making sure the soil temperature is right so your seeds have the highest possible germination rate, and having nighttime temps that are below 60 degrees really help to reduce transplant shock. Also, keep in mind the length of time it takes for your plants to mature before the first frost date. Start plant in semi-shade while temps are in the 90s and 100s, and then transplant on the first of October. I can plant almost year-round when it comes to any of the cool-weather crops. I live near the coast in San Diego. It is the summer crops that get powdery mildew and are hard to grow. I have to start broccoli, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts in late June. We are in a weird area. It can be 110 in summer and 25 in winter. But many of the cooler-weather crops can be planted in September/October, and then again in January/February. I am experimenting. My garden planted between late August and October managed to live over winter, though we do get occasional snow. My kale planted in May did as well as the plant I put in last September or October. For lettuce and peas, I planted seed in February, and they have been dynamite! The parsley I planted in August overwintered. Succession plant every two weeks starting in late summer and see which time period seems to be the most successful for your location. Grow from seed so that you can access a much wider selection of vegetables from similar climates to your own, and also so that you have complete control over your planting timetable. I try to plant after the bugs go away. They usually eat on my seedlings, but as soon as it gets a little cooler, they go away. It is pretty easy to grow winter vegetable in the Sacramento valley. The hard part is pulling up the summer vegetables that are still bearing to make room for the fall crops. I find the local Master Gardeners to be a helpful resource. Let the plants re-seed on their won. They know when they want to grow. Keep notes year by year of daily temperatures and weather. The best time to plant in your yard may differ from the area around you depending on what micro-climate exists in your yard. I also plant lots of native plants in and around my garden. Keeping track of when these are coming up has helped me time my own planting appropriately as well. Gulf Coast winters are extremely mild. I usually try starting in November. Take note of where the sun is going to be in the winter versus the summer and plant accordingly. I used to be able to start the winter vegetable garden right after Labor Day, but September has become so hot that it is extremely difficult now. Some lettuces and cilantro will go to seed and will not produce when planted that early. So I am always holding my breath and analyzing the weather patterns. I will start planting anywhere between early and late October. The plants need to be established before it cools off in November but they don’t like a lot of hot weather either. Additionally, some crops, such as carrots and parsley, I can grow year-round. Others, such as peas, I can only grow in the winter. Timing it so that the soil is still warm when the seedlings sprout, yet cool enough when the plants are maturing. Where I live I like to time the seedlings with the coming of the winter rains. The temperatures where I live are perfect for winter gardening. I plant all winter long. Winter Gardening Tips From Zone 10 What coverings/protections work best for you in your winter garden? In the winter, the most I’ll do is throw some towels over the tomatoes if we approach freezing temps. It’s a very rare occurrence. I use old window screens to keep the birds from eating the sprouts and the critters from digging in my beds. I plant delicate plants near other hardier plants for wind protection. I don’t cover usually, but will use straw if we’re going to have a possible freeze. I have to use sheets and blankets every few years. I only use a tarp during the coldest nights to keep off frost. Otherwise, I don’t use coverings. We just mulch with straw and other plant matter. I have some strawbale cold frames. None needed here. I live in southern California, so no coverings needed. We rarely get frost. If predicted, water the plants at night or place blankets on top. If I use anything, it’s floating row covers. What other winter growing techniques work best for you to get the biggest, healthiest harvests? Vertical gardening to get more out of the space. Thinning sprouts and enjoying a micro-greens meal. I’ve found that I can do anything with cabbage all winter. It just keeps on coming! We have clay soil, so adding vermiculite and peat moss every five years or so helps. Also, constant watering here in California if it gets too warm. Be sure to know your sun patterns. Half of my garden is shaded during the winter months, so I don’t plant there. Placing solar lamps in my beds adds warmth and light and extends the life of the veggies. Timing is everything here in the high desert. What are your best tips for getting the timing right when planning and planting a winter garden? Plant as soon as the summer rains subside and the soil is workable. What is this “winter” you speak of? Our farm is south of Miami. Feel it out. With the weather here in southern California, it is about learning that the weather is always changing. Pay attention to la nina and el nino. My crops go in when I get to it. The local weather is so mild that it doesn’t really matter. Read the seed packages! Figure out when you want to harvest your food, then count backwards using the “days to harvest” number and direct-sow seeds then. Bay Area weather can sometimes be fickle. I like to start seeds in the greenhouse, nurture them, and then transfer to raised beds equipped with solar lights. I plant winter crops when summer and fall crops are ending. Read more: motherearthnews/organic-gardening/winter-gardening-tips-zm0z13onzsto.aspx#ixzz2gK913IaG
Posted on: Sun, 29 Sep 2013 22:37:23 +0000
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