Oh man. I want to be down there. I was at Laguna Beach, not far from The Wedge, a few years back with high surf when someone was killed by those waves formed there. I resented deeply the lifeguards keeping people (myself) out of the water. The Hugh surf had been intensely fun the day before it became red flag and restricted. Two days went by and the shoreline was pummeled, with sand washed away leaving bare rocks and washing life guard towers off their moorings. But then the third day the yellow flag returned and people could again head into the surf. Boy, I learned quick how deeply dangerous the ocean can be. I was pulled out and away from the shoreline, didnt matter how hard I could swim, I couldnt move against that current. One massive wave would crash. I would go under, and have just enough time for one breath or inhale before the next massive wave would slam down again. Thankfully, I remembered in my anxiety to calm myself down and relax. I didnt fight the current, and eventually was into a new one that let me back to shore. The trick was to keep under water before a wave crashed upon me, cause those big waves care a ton of violent power. You wont fare well if you take the brunt of their force again and again, and again, as they churn you up in all directions. Oh, how I love to watch huge surf, and marvel at the power of nature.
Posted on: Thu, 28 Aug 2014 07:16:56 +0000
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